Hondarribia

TL;DR: Hondarribia is a stunning medieval fishing town on the French border where cobblestone streets meet Michelin-starred pintxos bars, colorful fishermen’s houses line the harbor, and you can literally wade in the river between Spain and France. Skip San Sebastián’s crowds—this is where the magic really happens.

Picture this: you’re sipping txakoli wine at a 600-year-old café, surrounded by rainbow-colored houses, with France literally across the river. That’s just Tuesday in Hondarribia (locals call it “Fuenterrabía” if you’re speaking Spanish, “Ondarribia” in Basque—yeah, it’s that kind of place).

Why Hondarribia Should Be at the Top of Your Basque Country Bucket List

Let’s be honest—everyone flocks to San Sebastián. And sure, La Concha beach is gorgeous, but you know what’s better? Finding a place that feels like a secret, even though it’s been charming visitors since the Middle Ages.

Hondarribia sits right where the Bidasoa River kisses the Bay of Biscay, creating this perfect storm of medieval architecture, world-class food, and that special Basque vibe that makes you want to cancel your flight home. It’s only 20km from San Sebastián, but it feels like stepping into another era entirely.

Getting There (Easier Than You Think)

Flying In: San Sebastián Airport is literally 5 minutes away—walk out and you’re basically there. Bilbao Airport works too (about an hour’s drive), and Biarritz Airport across the French border is another solid option.

By Bus: From San Sebastián, catch the E20 or E21 bus from Gipuzkoa Plaza. Takes about 35-40 minutes and costs around €2.50. Runs every 20-30 minutes, so no stress if you miss one.

By Car: Takes 25 minutes from San Sebastián via the A-8. Parking can be tricky in the old quarter, so head to the lots near the marina or outside the walls.

Pro tip: The train exists but requires a transfer at Irun. Skip it and take the bus—trust me.

Where to Stay: From Budget-Friendly to Splurge-Worthy

Parador de Hondarribia – Sleeping in a literal 10th-century castle? Yeah, that’s a thing here. Carlos V himself stayed here, and now you can too. Rooms start around €120-200/night. The views from the fortress walls? Chef’s kiss.

Hotel Álvarez Quintero – Mid-range gem in the old town with that boutique hotel charm. Think exposed stone walls and modern comfort. Around €80-140/night.

Pensión Txoko Goxoa – Budget travelers, this one’s for you. Family-run, super clean, and you’re paying €50-70/night for a room in the heart of everything.

Airbnb Game – The Marina district (Barrio de la Marina) has tons of apartments in those iconic colorful buildings. You’ll wake up to fishing boats and the smell of the sea.

What to Do: Beyond Just Wandering (Though Wandering Is Amazing)

Casco Viejo (Old Town): Get Gloriously Lost

The medieval quarter is what Instagram dreams are made of. We’re talking fortress walls from the 1400s, the Church of Santa María de la Asunción (where Louis XIV got married—casual), and streets so narrow you can touch both sides.

Calle San Pedro is your main artery through the old town. Every doorway is a photo op, every corner reveals another plaza. The town walls offer killer views of the estuary and France beyond.

Don’t miss: Plaza de Armas, where locals hang out and you can grab coffee at one of the cafés that have been there since your great-grandparents were young.

Barrio de la Marina: Color Overload in the Best Way

Head downhill from the old town and BAM—you’re hit with a rainbow of fishermen’s houses. Traditionally, families painted their homes in bright colors so fishermen could spot them from the sea. Now? It’s just ridiculously photogenic.

Calle San Pedro (different from the one in the old town—confusing, I know) runs through the heart of the marina. Every building is painted a different shade of blue, green, yellow, red. Flower boxes overflow from balconies. It’s almost annoyingly perfect.

The Beach (Playa de Hondarribia): Where River Meets Ocean

Not your typical beach—it’s where the Bidasoa estuary opens to the Bay of Biscay. The sand is fine and golden, the water’s swimmable (if you don’t mind it a bit cool), and there’s this long promenade perfect for sunset strolls.

Walk along the Paseo Butrón waterfront path all the way to the Guadalupe hermitage. On a clear day, you can see the French coast so clearly you’ll be tempted to swim over (don’t).

Cross into France (Because Why Not?)

Take a boat across the estuary to Hendaye in France. It’s a 5-minute ride, costs just a few euros, and suddenly you’re having croissants in another country. The boats run regularly in summer, less frequently off-season.

Or rent bikes and cycle along both sides of the river—the path is flat, scenic, and you can stop for pintxos on one side, crêpes on the other.

Santuario de Guadalupe: Hike with a View

This 16th-century sanctuary sits on a hill overlooking everything. The hike up takes about 30-40 minutes through pine forests. At the top? Panoramic views of the coast, the town, and France. There’s usually a hermit-keeper who’ll tell you the history if you’re lucky.

Pro tip: Go at sunset. The light hitting the water is unreal.

Let’s Talk Food (The Real Reason You’re Here)

Pintxos Bars: The Only Itinerary That Matters

Forget dinner reservations—in Hondarribia, you do the txikiteo (pintxos bar crawl). Here’s your hit list:

Gran Sol – On Calle San Pedro in the marina. Their gilda (olive, pepper, anchovy on a toothpick) is legendary. Go for the white asparagus with txangurro (spider crab). €3-5 per pintxo.

Ardoka Vinoteka – Wine bar meets pintxo heaven. Over 200 wines by the glass, creative pintxos that change daily. The foie with apple compote will ruin all other foie for you.

Hermandad de Pescadores – The fishermen’s brotherhood runs this spot. Fresh-as-it-gets seafood, no-frills, no-nonsense. If there’s merluza (hake) on the menu, order it.

Sit-Down Restaurants Worth the Splurge

Alameda – Michelin-starred but not stuffy. Chef Gorka Txapartegi does modern Basque cuisine with products so local you might’ve passed the farm on your way in. Tasting menu around €95. Book weeks ahead.

Sebastián – Right on the plaza, been here forever. Traditional Basque cooking, generous portions. The txuleta (aged beef steak) is worth the €50/kg price tag.

Arraunlari – Harbor views, seafood that was swimming this morning, and prices that won’t make you cry (mains €18-30). The grilled turbot is everything.

Markets and Local Eats

Hit the Saturday morning market in Plaza Gipuzkoa. Local farmers, cheese makers, producers. Grab fresh tomatoes, some Idiazabal cheese, chorizo, a bottle of txakoli, and have a picnic by the water.

Bakeries: Pastelería Otaegi has been making pastries since 1912. The croissants rival anything in France (controversial but true), and the pantxineta (puff pastry with cream) is addictive.

Drinks: Txakoli and Beyond

Txakoli is the local white wine—slightly sparkling, slightly acidic, served poured from height into the glass (for aeration and show). Every bar has it. Order it with anchovies and feel very Basque.

Sagardotegia Season (Cider Houses): January to April, the cider houses open. You pay a fixed price (around €35-40), and it’s unlimited cider straight from the barrel, plus a set menu of chorizo, cod omelette, and txuleta. Sidrería Saizar in nearby Astigarraga is worth the trip.

Gin & Tonic Culture: Basques take their G&Ts seriously. Order one and watch them craft it like a cocktail, with premium gin, Fever-Tree tonic, and garnishes that match the gin’s botanicals.

Day Trips and Nearby Attractions

San Sebastián (20km)

You’re so close—go see La Concha beach, eat more pintxos, visit the aquarium. The bus makes it super easy.

Pasaia (30km)

Victor Hugo’s house is here, and this fishing village feels even more authentic than Hondarribia (if that’s possible). Narrow canals, colorful boats, zero tourists.

Biarritz, France (40km)

Surf culture meets French elegance. Great beaches, the famous Rocher de la Vierge, and excellent croissants (obviously).

Getaria (45km)

Birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano (first guy to sail around the world) and home to Elkano restaurant (three Michelin stars, €250+ per person, worth every cent if you’re splurging).

Inland Basque Country

Rent a car and explore the green hills. Oñati has stunning architecture, Sanctuary of Arantzazu is perched dramatically in the mountains, and the whole region is dotted with farms producing the cheese and meat you’ve been eating.

Best Time to Visit

September-October: Perfect weather (20-25°C), fewer crowds than summer, and harvest season means incredible produce. This is my pick.

June-August: Peak season. Warmest weather, best for beaches, but expect crowds and higher prices. Book accommodation way ahead.

April-May: Wildflowers blooming, pleasant temperatures, and you might catch cider house season’s tail end.

November-March: Quieter, cooler (10-15°C), some restaurants close, but you’ll have the old town to yourself. Bring a rain jacket.

Festivals Worth Planning Around

Alarde (September 8): Historic military parade commemorating the town’s defense against French siege in 1638. Everyone dresses in period costume—locals take it very seriously.

Semana Grande (July): Week-long fiesta with concerts, fireworks, traditional sports competitions.

Carnival (February/March): Basque carnival is wild. Costumes, parades, street parties.

Practical Tips for Your Visit

Language: Spanish and Basque are both official. Most people in tourism speak English, but learning basic Spanish helps. “Eskerrik asko” (thank you in Basque) will earn you smiles.

Money: Spain uses euros. Cards widely accepted, but carry some cash for small pintxos bars and markets.

Tipping: Not obligatory but appreciated. Round up or leave 5-10% if service was great.

Accessibility: The old town is medieval, so cobblestones and stairs everywhere. The marina and beach areas are more accessible.

Safety: Extremely safe. Biggest risk is overeating.

What to Pack: Comfortable walking shoes (those cobblestones!), layers (weather can change), and an appetite.

Sample 3-Day Itinerary

Day 1: Old Town Deep Dive

• Morning: Explore Casco Viejo, visit Santa María church, walk the fortress walls
• Lunch: Pintxos crawl through the old quarter
• Afternoon: Hermitage hike to Guadalupe
• Evening: Dinner at Sebastián, drinks on Plaza de Armas

Day 2: Marina and Beach

• Morning: Wander Barrio de la Marina, photograph all the colorful houses
• Lunch: Seafood at Arraunlari
• Afternoon: Beach time and waterfront walk
• Evening: Boat to Hendaye for French dinner, boat back for Spanish nightcap

Day 3: Beyond Town

• Morning: Saturday market, stock up on local products
• Lunch: Day trip to San Sebastián or Pasaia
• Afternoon: Return for one last pintxos round
• Evening: Splurge dinner at Alameda

The Stuff You’re Wondering But Haven’t Asked

Is it crowded? Less than San Sebastián, but summer weekends get busy. Weekdays and shoulder season are golden.

English-friendly? Tourist areas yes, but less than bigger cities. Part of the charm.

Good for families? Absolutely. Safe, beaches, parks, and kids eat free at many pintxos bars (seriously).

Solo traveler-friendly? Perfect. Bar culture makes it easy to chat with locals and other travelers.

LGBTQ+-friendly? Basque Country is generally progressive and welcoming. Never heard of issues.

Budget estimate: €60-80/day on a budget, €120-180/day comfortably, €250+/day for luxury. Food will be your biggest expense (worth it).

Final Thoughts

Hondarribia isn’t trying to be anything other than what it is—a gorgeous fishing town that’s been here for centuries and will be here for centuries more. The castle walls have stood since before Columbus sailed. The fishermen’s houses have been painted and repainted by generations. The pintxos bars have perfected their recipes over decades.

You could easily see Hondarribia in a day trip from San Sebastián. But that would be like going to a Michelin-starred restaurant and only having an appetizer. Stay a few days. Slow down. Adopt the Basque pace—long lunches, evening strolls, pintxos that turn into dinners that turn into nightcaps.

When you’re standing on those fortress walls at sunset, watching France glow across the estuary, with a glass of txakoli in hand and the scent of grilled seafood drifting up from the marina, you’ll understand why people have been fighting over this place for centuries.

It’s that good.

Recap: Hondarribia at a Glance

✅ Location: Gipuzkoa, Basque Country, Spanish-French border ✅ Getting There: 20km from San Sebastián, bus €2.50, 35 minutes ✅ Must-See: Medieval old town, colorful Marina district, fortress walls ✅ Must-Eat: Pintxos at Gran Sol, tasting menu at Alameda, txakoli wine ✅ Must-Do: Txikiteo (pintxos crawl), boat to France, beach sunset walk ✅ Best Time: September-October for weather + fewer crowds ✅ Budget: €80-180/day depending on your style ✅ Stay: 2-3 days minimum to really soak it in

Disclaimer: Prices, opening hours, and travel information were accurate as of early 2025 but can change. Always check official sources, restaurant websites, and local tourism offices for current details. Bus schedules vary by season. Michelin-starred restaurants require advance reservations. The author may earn commission from some links (just kidding—there are no links, I’m an AI, but if this were a blog, there totally would be). Travel at your own risk, eat all the pintxos your stomach can handle, and please drink txakoli responsibly. Your experience may vary, but it’ll probably be amazing.