MV Karwela

Picture this: you’re floating 40 meters below the crystal-clear Mediterranean waters off Gozo’s coast, and suddenly, a massive ghost ship materializes from the blue depths below you. Welcome to the MV Karwela, Malta’s most famous artificial reef and arguably the most photogenic wreck dive in the entire Mediterranean.

Why the MV Karwela Should Be on Every Diver’s Bucket List

If you’re planning a diving trip to Malta and Gozo, the MV Karwela isn’t just another tick-box experience – it’s THE dive that will have you planning your return trip before you’ve even dried off. This 50-meter passenger ferry sits perfectly upright on a sandy bottom with a maximum depth of around 40 meters, making it probably the most dived wreck around Gozo.

But what makes this wreck so special that divers travel from across Europe just to explore her decks? Let’s dive deeper into the story.

From German Waters to Mediterranean Depths: The Karwela’s Journey

The MV Karwela was built in West Germany by Jos L. Meyer in 1957, originally named M/S Frisia II, and was renamed to MV Nordpaloma in 1977. The ferry came to Malta in 1986 and was renamed to MV Karwela in 1992 under Captain Morgan Cruises, where she spent her final working years taking tourists on scenic harbor cruises around Valletta’s Grand Harbour.

After serving faithfully for decades, the Karwela was given a second life beneath the waves. The Gozo Tourism Association scuttled MV Karwela on 12th August 2006 together with MV Cominoland as part of an ambitious artificial reef project. But this wasn’t just a case of dumping an old ship – extensive preparation went into making her both environmentally safe and diver-friendly.

Before scuttling, the ferry was made environmentally safe and also safe for divers to penetrate, with buoyancy tanks used during the scuttle to ensure the wreck landed upright. Cassar Ship Repair thoroughly cleaned both vessels, removing 18 tons of oil and fuel from Karwela alone.

The Dive Experience: What Makes Karwela Unforgettable

The Legendary Staircase

Every underwater photographer knows about “the shot” – that one image that perfectly captures the magic of diving the Karwela. The highlight of this dive is the impressive staircase in the middle of the wreck leading to the lower deck. The stairs have been made famous as they’ve been featured in numerous diver magazines and online articles.

There is a photogenic staircase in the middle of the wreck leading to the lower deck, which is lit by portholes. The natural light streaming through creates an almost cathedral-like atmosphere that’s guaranteed to give you goosebumps – and some seriously Instagram-worthy shots.

Perfect for Penetration Diving

Unlike many wrecks that can be claustrophobic or dangerous to enter, the Karwela was specifically prepared for safe exploration. The wreck is safe to penetrate because of the various openings made before scuttling, and there is plenty to explore on its three decks. Large holes were cut all along the sides on the first two decks.

The dive is also a relatively easy one. As the wreck is artificial it means that penetration is safe and divers are always within close reach of an easy exit point.

The Perfect Depth and Layout

Her bow lies at 39 m deep, whereas her stern rests at 41 m. The top deck with the captain’s cabin starts at a depth of 30 m. This layout means you can explore different levels of the wreck depending on your certification level and air consumption.

Getting There: Your Gateway to Adventure

The Karwela lies off Xatt l-Ahmar (literally “Red Bay” in Maltese) on Gozo’s southeastern coast. To reach the dive site, you must first make your way to the Rabat-Mgarr road, after which you need to take a left on a side street found parallel to the parish church’s bell tower. Then, you must drive down a long concrete track through the farms.

Don’t worry about the bumpy farm track – it’s all part of the adventure! Xatt L-Ahmar was recently given a facelift, with ample parking and more importantly, setup areas—ideal whether you are carrying one cylinder or are more technically inclined.

Shore Diving Made Easy

Entry is by means of a giant stride from the rocks. There are two ladders on the rocks by the shore, which make getting out of the water easier. The walk from the car park to the entry point is manageable, even with full kit.

What You’ll See: Marine Life and Hidden Treasures

The Karwela isn’t just about the structure – she’s become a thriving artificial reef. Dentex, Barracuda and Grouper can be spotted around the Karwela as well as the occasional spiny lobster.

Here’s something that adds a quirky twist to the dive’s history: shortly after sinking of Karwela, a Volkswagen Beetle car was also sunk onto her starboard deck by the stern by some local divers, who swam it out on floating barrels. Unfortunately nothing is left from this car wreck. While the Beetle is long gone, it’s one of those fun dive site legends that adds character to the experience.

Who Can Dive the Karwela?

This isn’t a dive for beginners. You must be certified to dive to a depth of 40 meters to dive this site. If you wish to penetrate the wreck you will be required to have a Wreck Diver certification. Most dive centers also recommend Nitrox certification to maximize your bottom time on this spectacular wreck.

All 3 wrecks are below 30 m with a maximum depth of 42m, therefore Deep training is necessary. We recommend bearing Advanced Nitrox and Decompression Procedures certification.

Beyond the Karwela: The Triple Wreck Experience

The beauty of diving Xatt l-Ahmar is that you’re not limited to just one wreck. Xatt l-Ahmar is a popular scuba diving site on the southeastern coast of Gozo. Dive sites in Xatt l-Ahmar are three deep wrecks MV Cominoland, MV Karwela and MV Xlendi.

Karwela is the middle one of the three wrecks in Xatt l-Ahmar, between Cominoland which lies about 60 m east, and Xlendi about 60 m west of Karwela. Depending on your air consumption and no-deco limits, ambitious divers can sometimes visit multiple wrecks in a single dive.

Photography Tips for the Perfect Shot

The Karwela is a photographer’s dream, but timing and technique matter:

• Natural Light Magic: The stairs flooded in natural light are best photographed during midday when the sun is directly overhead
• Bring a Wide-Angle Lens: The sheer size of the wreck means you’ll want to capture as much as possible in frame
• Respect the Environment: The wreck is home to marine life, so be mindful of your positioning and buoyancy

Planning Your Visit: Practical Considerations

Best Time to Dive: The Mediterranean diving season runs from April to November, with July and August offering the warmest water temperatures but also the busiest conditions.

Dive Operators: Numerous PADI and SSI dive centers on Gozo offer trips to the Karwela. Most provide equipment rental and can arrange transportation to the site.

Safety Considerations: Xatt l-Ahmar is a remote location, take water and food with you, and plenty of sunscreens. Always dive with a reputable operator and ensure your certifications match the depth requirements.

The Bottom Line

The MV Karwela is a top destination for diving enthusiasts in Gozo. It offers a blend of accessible penetration opportunities, stunning underwater photography spots like the grand staircase, and diverse marine life.

Whether you’re a wreck diving veteran or looking to take your diving to the next level, the MV Karwela delivers an experience that combines history, adventure, and natural beauty in one unforgettable dive. It’s no wonder that Malta and Gozo were recently voted the 2nd best diving destination in the world by Diver magazine readers.

So pack your dive gear, brush up on your deep diving skills, and prepare for an underwater adventure that’ll have you planning your next trip to Gozo before you’ve even surfaced. The Karwela is waiting – and trust me, she’s even more spectacular than the photos suggest.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only. Diving the MV Karwela requires appropriate certifications and experience. Always dive within your limits and with certified dive operators. Conditions can change rapidly, and all diving carries inherent risks. Ensure you have proper dive insurance and follow all safety protocols. The author and publisher assume no responsibility for any accidents or incidents that may occur while diving this or any other site. Always check current conditions and restrictions before diving.