Hidden in Armenia’s spectacular Lori Province, this sacred village guards one of Christianity’s most mystical legends – and a funerary monument that might just prove it’s true.
The Legend: A Levitating Burial
Picture this: It’s the 1st century, and the Apostle Thomas is making his epic journey to India. But first, he stops in what’s now Odzun village, carrying with him something precious – Christ’s swaddling clothes. Local tradition tells us that before leaving for India, the apostle buried the swaddling clothes of Jesus Christ in the place of the sanctuary of the present day Saint Astvatsatsin Church.
But here’s where things get otherworldly. The legend doesn’t end with a simple burial. Locals whisper that when the saint was laid to rest here, something miraculous happened – he levitated into the afterlife, defying the very laws of physics in his final sacred moment.
And there’s evidence. Standing beside the ancient church is one of only two such funerary monuments in Armenia – a mysterious structure that seems to back up this incredible tale. Standing on a tiered base and constructed in polished stone in the form of two arcades, this monument has a delicate harmony of symmetry. The carved biblical scenes on its surfaces tell the story of Christianity’s arrival in Armenia, but locals believe it marks something even more extraordinary.
Sacred Stones That Speak
This isn’t your typical tourist trap. Odzun had such a different vibe to many other villages in Armenia that I had visited. For one, it felt ‘large’ by Armenian village standards. And, it is… it has over 4,000 people and is one of the largest villages in the country. It also felt a bit undiscovered.
The Star Attraction: Odzun Church
Odzun Monastery is a majestic 6th century monument located in the centre of Odzun village, in northern Armenia. Built from gorgeous pink felsite stone, this isn’t just another ancient church – it’s an architectural marvel that’s been watching over the Debed River gorge for over 1,300 years.
What makes it special? Odzun is also notable for its figural relief sculpture. Look for the stunning carving of Christ on the eastern facade, holding an open book with the first words of St. John’s Gospel. Two angels flank the scene, each grasping serpents that intertwine into decorative palmettos – a composition that’s virtually unique in Christian art.
The Mysterious Monument
Near the church is a funerary monument with carved images dating to the 5th–6th centuries. This isn’t just any gravestone. In the opening of each arcade is a rectangular stele, four meters high. On its four faces are finely carved bas-reliefs of scenes depicting the propagation of Christianity. These include scenes of the Virgin Mary and Child, Christ’s baptism, and the twelve apostles – all masterfully carved by ancient artisans.
The Village That Time Forgot
The name Odzun itself tells a story. According to one explanation, the name of the village derives from the Armenian word odz ‘snake’; thus, Odzun means ‘having many snakes’ or ‘place of snakes’. And there’s a legendary connection here too – local tales speak of dragons turned to stone by a holy man’s prayers, with healing water still flowing from their stone bellies.
The village is situated on a high plateau on the left bank of the Debed River. It is spread out and surrounded by fruit trees and fertile fields. Picture rolling landscapes, dramatic cliff views, and that pristine mountain air that makes you want to fill your lungs and never leave.
Beyond the Main Event
Hidden Gem: Horomayr Monastery
Want to feel like an explorer? About 1 km south of Odzun, there’s an incredibly well-camouflaged monastery on the slope of the cliffs. The monastery is built in part at the top of the cliff, in part halfway down. At the top, there is a three-chambered chapel. Below, the walls of the canyon form one of the four walls of the structures. It’s like nature and human architecture decided to collaborate on something magical.
Authentic Village Life
The priest lives nearby, and is always happy to show visitors through the church. He can often be found in the small garden cafe opposite, which serves tea, good Armenian coffee and home-made cakes. This is where you’ll get those authentic moments that no guidebook can manufacture – real conversations with locals who’ve grown up with these legends.
The Location: Your Practical Guide
Getting There
From Yerevan (the most common starting point):
- Yerevan to Odzun is approximately 177 kilometers
- By Public Transport: Take a minibus (marshrutka) from Kilikia Station to Alaverdi. The cost is around 3 Euros and the trip takes about 4 hours. Buses leave approximately every 2 hours. From Alaverdi, take a taxi to Odzun. Do not pay more than 1000-2000 AMD ($2-4) for this journey. It should be about a 10-15 minute ride
- By Car: About 3 hours of driving through some of Armenia’s most scenic landscapes
- By Tour: For the easiest option, join an all-day tour from Yerevan to Odzun, Akhtala, Sanahin, and Haghpat
Where to Stay
- B&B Odzun: The local favorite that gets rave reviews from travelers
- Odzun boarding house (built in 1971), which is obviously not a five-star hotel, but it’s a modest and cozy place where you can rest and spend the night
- Several guesthouses with stunning gorge views
When to Visit
Any time of year works, but spring offers the most dramatic scenery with lush green landscapes. If you’re budget-conscious, consider visiting between December and February, when hotel prices are generally the lowest.
What It Costs
- Church entry: Free
- Accommodation: From $4 USD per night in basic guesthouses
- Local transport: Very affordable (taxis around $2-4 for short distances)
Why This Matters
In a world where ancient sites get overrun by tour buses and souvenir stands, Odzun offers something increasingly rare: authentic sacred energy without the crowds. The church has been completely refurbished in 2017 so it is a magnificent place, yet it maintains its mystical atmosphere.
This isn’t just sightseeing – it’s stepping into a living legend where fragments of ancient ornaments and household items from the 6th century were found during the renovations, where every carved stone tells a story, and where the boundaries between history and myth blur in the most beautiful way.
Whether you believe in levitating saints or not, there’s something undeniably powerful about standing in a place where people have gathered to pray for over 1,500 years. The ancient stones, the dramatic landscape, and the whispered legends combine to create an experience that stays with you long after you’ve returned to the modern world.
Pack light, bring an open mind, and prepare to discover one of Armenia’s most enchanting secrets.
