Imagine a landscape that looks more like the moon than Earth: a sea of black volcanic soil stretching as far as the eye can see, dotted with thousands of crescent-shaped stone walls cradling vibrant green vines. Welcome to La Geria, Lanzarote’s wine country, where against all odds, some of Spain’s most unique wines are born from seemingly impossible conditions. This isn’t your typical vineyard with neat rows and lush greenery. Instead, it’s a testament to human ingenuity and determination, where local farmers have turned volcanic devastation into an agricultural masterpiece. La Geria isn’t just a wine region, it’s a living museum showcasing how Lanzarote’s people adapted to life after massive volcanic eruptions nearly destroyed their island. Whether you’re a wine enthusiast, a photography buff, or simply someone who appreciates seeing human creativity triumph over natural adversity, La Geria offers an experience unlike any other wine region on the planet. Let’s explore this extraordinary landscape where wine, volcanoes, and resourceful farming techniques create something truly magical.
History of La Geria
La Geria’s remarkable story begins with catastrophe. Between 1730 and 1736, Lanzarote experienced one of the most devastating volcanic eruptions in recorded history. For nearly six continuous years, volcanoes spewed lava and ash across the island, burying entire villages and fertile farmlands under layers of volcanic material. When the eruptions finally subsided, over a quarter of the island lay buried beneath a thick blanket of volcanic ash and lapilli (small volcanic stones), with La Geria among the hardest-hit regions.
The locals faced a seemingly impossible situation. Their once-fertile land was now covered in black volcanic soil called “picón” that was several meters deep in places. Traditional farming methods were simply impossible. Most would have abandoned the land entirely, but Lanzarote’s resilient residents had other ideas.
Through careful observation, local farmers made a revolutionary discovery that would transform La Geria’s landscape forever. They noticed that the volcanic ash actually had beneficial properties: it absorbed morning dew and what little rainfall the island received, slowly releasing moisture to plants’ roots. Additionally, the porous volcanic rock prevented evaporation and protected plants from the harsh Canary Islands winds.
With this knowledge, farmers developed an ingenious cultivation method specifically for La Geria. They dug large circular holes through the layer of volcanic ash until they reached the original fertile soil beneath. In these hollows, they planted grapevines, particularly the Malvasia variety which thrived in these unusual conditions. Around each pit, they built semicircular stone walls called “zocos” to protect the vines from the constant trade winds that sweep across the island.
This labor-intensive farming method spread across La Geria through the 18th and 19th centuries, gradually transforming the volcanic wasteland into a productive agricultural zone. The vines flourished, producing sweet wines that became prized across Europe, particularly in England where Lanzarote’s “Canary sack” wines were mentioned in Shakespeare’s works and enjoyed by the aristocracy.
By the mid-19th century, La Geria’s wines were internationally recognized and constituted a significant part of Lanzarote’s economy. However, disaster struck again in the 1850s when phylloxera, a grape vine pest, devastated vineyards across Europe. Ironically, Lanzarote’s volcanic soil proved to be a savior, as the aphid-like insects couldn’t survive in the ash. While European vineyards were decimated, La Geria’s vines remained untouched, making them some of the oldest original European vines still in existence today.
Throughout the 20th century, La Geria continued to produce wines using traditional methods, with many families maintaining vineyards that had been in their possession for generations. In 1994, the region’s cultural and agricultural significance was officially recognized when La Geria was designated as a protected landscape by the Canary Islands government.
Today, La Geria stands as a remarkable example of agricultural adaptation and cultural heritage. The bizarre lunar landscape with its thousands of stone semicircles represents one of the most unique vineyard systems in the world and serves as a living monument to human ingenuity in the face of natural disaster.
Fun Facts About La Geria
- Single-vine vineyards: Unlike traditional vineyards where vines grow in rows, each crater in La Geria typically contains just one vine, making it perhaps the world’s most spacious vineyard!
- Volcanic preservation: The phylloxera plague that devastated European vineyards in the 19th century never affected La Geria, making some of these vines direct descendants of the original European vines planted centuries ago.
- NASA study site: The unique agricultural techniques of La Geria have been studied by scientists, including NASA researchers interested in potential farming methods for Mars or lunar colonies.
- Hand harvesting only: The unique cultivation system means mechanical harvesting is impossible—all grapes must be picked by hand, preserving traditional farming techniques.
- Protected status: La Geria was declared a Protected Natural Area in 1987, recognizing both its ecological and cultural significance.
- Dry farming: Despite receiving less than 6 inches of rainfall annually, the vineyards are not irrigated. The volcanic ash captures morning dew and humidity, providing sufficient moisture for the vines.
- Ancient vines: Some of the vines in La Geria are over 200 years old, producing a very small yield but exceptionally concentrated, flavorful grapes.
Cultural Tourism in La Geria
La Geria offers a fascinating peek into Canarian rural life and agricultural innovation. The region represents a perfect blend of natural wonder and cultural heritage that draws visitors interested in more than just beach tourism.
The traditional viticulture methods used here have been passed down through generations, creating a cultural landscape unlike anywhere else in the world. Visitors can observe local farmers tending to their vines using techniques virtually unchanged for centuries.
Many wineries (bodegas) in the area offer cultural tours that explain not just wine production but the entire history of how locals adapted to life after the volcanic eruptions. These tours often include demonstrations of traditional farming tools and methods specific to Lanzarote’s volcanic environment.
For those interested in architecture, the region features traditional Canarian farmhouses with distinctive white walls and green woodwork, built to withstand the island’s climate. The stone walls around each vine pit are themselves masterpieces of dry stone construction, built without mortar yet standing strong against constant winds.
Local handicrafts, particularly pottery and items made from volcanic rock, can be found in various workshops throughout La Geria, offering visitors authentic cultural souvenirs that directly connect to the region’s volcanic heritage.
Where Can La Geria Be Found?
La Geria is located in the central-western part of Lanzarote, one of Spain’s Canary Islands situated off the northwest coast of Africa. This wine region spans approximately 5,255 hectares between the towns of Uga and San Bartolomé, with the dramatic backdrop of Timanfaya National Park’s Fire Mountains visible in the distance.
The main road LZ-30 runs directly through La Geria, making it easily accessible for visitors. This scenic route is often called the Wine Route (Ruta de Las Bodegas) and connects the towns of Yaiza and San Bartolomé, offering stunning views of the vineyard landscape throughout the journey.
La Geria is approximately 15 minutes by car from Arrecife (the capital city), 10 minutes from Puerto del Carmen (a popular tourist resort), and about 20 minutes from the airport. Its central location makes it an easy day trip from virtually anywhere on the island.
Reasons to Visit La Geria
- Otherworldly landscapes: The black volcanic terrain dotted with thousands of stone crescents creates a scene that feels more like science fiction than reality—a photographer’s dream.
- Unique wine tasting experiences: Sample wines grown in volcanic soil using methods found nowhere else on Earth, producing flavors distinctly different from mainland Spanish wines.
- Living agricultural museum: Witness farming techniques developed in the 18th century that are still in active use today, demonstrating sustainable agriculture long before it became trendy.
- Architectural marvel: Marvel at thousands of hand-built stone walls that have stood for generations, representing tremendous human effort and ingenuity.
- Volcano views: Enjoy panoramic vistas of Timanfaya National Park’s dramatic volcanic cones and craters that created this landscape.
- Authentic cultural immersion: Experience a slice of true Lanzarote life away from the main tourist zones, where local traditions remain strong.
- Perfect climate: With 300+ sunny days per year and pleasant temperatures year-round, La Geria offers ideal conditions for outdoor exploration in any season.
Local Wines: What to Know
Main Grape Varieties:
- Malvasia – The star variety, producing aromatic whites with distinctive mineral notes from the volcanic soil
- Listán Negro – The primary red grape variety, creating fruity, light-bodied reds
- Diego – A white variety that contributes acidity and freshness to many blends
- Moscatel – Used primarily for sweet dessert wines
Notable Wineries (Bodegas):
- El Grifo – The oldest winery in the Canaries (est. 1775) with an excellent wine museum
- La Geria – A historic bodega offering traditional wine-making tours
- Rubicón – Set in a beautiful 17th-century farmhouse with stunning gardens
- Vega de Yuco – Known for innovative modern wines while respecting tradition
- Los Bermejos – Award-winning producer creating some of the island’s best wines
Wine Characteristics:
- White wines typically feature pronounced minerality, saltiness, and volcanic notes
- Many wines have higher acidity and lower alcohol content than mainland Spanish wines
- The volcanic soil imparts a distinctive smoky quality to many of the wines
- Limited production means most La Geria wines never leave the Canary Islands
Traditional Wine Types:
- Dry white Malvasia – Crisp with notes of tropical fruit and volcanic minerals
- Semi-sweet Malvasia – Honeyed character balanced with refreshing acidity
- Sweet dessert wines – Traditionally important exports, rich and complex
- Rosados (rosé) – Light, fresh wines perfect for the island’s climate
Things To Do in La Geria
Wine Tours and Tastings: Take guided tours of family-run bodegas to learn about volcanic viticulture firsthand. Most wineries offer tastings paired with local cheeses and traditional Canarian “mojos” (spicy sauces).
Photography Expeditions: The otherworldly landscape with its perfect symmetry of stone crescents makes for stunning photography, especially during golden hour when the low sun creates dramatic shadows across the volcanic terrain.
E-Bike Tours: Rent an electric bike to cover more ground while still enjoying the open air. Several companies offer guided e-bike tours specifically designed for wine routes.
Volcanic Cave Exploration: Visit nearby volcanic caves and tubes formed during the historic eruptions that created this landscape.
Traditional Craft Workshops: Participate in pottery or stone carving workshops that use volcanic materials, creating souvenirs directly connected to the region.
Farm-to-Table Dining: Several restaurants in the area specialize in Canarian cuisine using locally grown ingredients, often with vineyard views.
Stargazing: With minimal light pollution and clear skies, La Geria offers excellent stargazing opportunities. Some tour operators offer evening wine tastings combined with guided astronomy sessions.
Events Not to Miss
La Geria Wine Run (April): A popular race combining sports and wine tourism, where participants run through the vineyard landscape with wine-tasting stations along the route.
Malvasia Harvest Festival (August/September): Celebrate the grape harvest with local music, folk dancing, traditional food, and of course, plenty of wine tasting.
Fiesta de San Martín (November 11): The traditional celebration when new wines are first tasted, featuring folk music and local gastronomy.
Open Winery Days (Various dates): Throughout the year, different bodegas host open days with special tastings, cellar tours, and cultural activities.
Lanzarote Wine Week (June): A week dedicated to promoting the island’s wines with special events, tasting menus at restaurants, and discounted bodega tours.
Full Moon Vineyard Walks (Monthly): Several tour operators offer guided night walks through the vineyards during full moons, followed by wine tastings under the stars.
Cycling in La Geria
La Geria offers some of Lanzarote’s most spectacular cycling routes, attracting everyone from casual riders to professional teams who train on the island during European winters.
The main LZ-30 road through La Geria features smooth surfaces with moderate inclines, making it accessible to cyclists of various fitness levels. The unique landscape provides constant visual interest while pedaling, with the added benefit of wineries for refreshment stops.
Several bike rental shops in nearby towns offer quality road bikes, mountain bikes, and increasingly popular e-bikes that make tackling any hills much easier for casual cyclists.
Popular cycling routes include:
- La Geria Loop (25km): A moderate circuit from Uga through the heart of wine country and back
- Volcano Views Ride (40km): Combining La Geria with parts of Timanfaya National Park
- Winery-to-Winery Route (15-30km): Customizable routes stopping at multiple bodegas (just remember to taste responsibly if cycling!)
Guided cycling tours are available for those wanting local knowledge and support, with most including winery visits and regional cuisine.
Hiking Trails
Despite its arid appearance, La Geria offers several rewarding hiking trails that showcase the region’s volcanic features and agricultural ingenuity.
Montaña Guardilama Trail: This moderate 3-hour circular route climbs one of the area’s volcanic cones, offering spectacular 360° views across La Geria’s vineyard landscape. The trail provides excellent photo opportunities and informational signs about the geological history.
La Geria to Uga Path: An easy 5km walking route passing multiple wineries and traditional farmhouses. Perfect for those wanting to combine gentle hiking with cultural stops.
Volcano and Vineyards Route: A longer 12km trail connecting several volcanic features with vineyard areas, demonstrating the relationship between the eruptions and today’s agriculture.
Guided Ethnographic Walks: Several local guides offer specialized walking tours focusing on the human history of the region, explaining how farming techniques evolved after the volcanic disasters.
For all hikes in La Geria, sturdy footwear is recommended as the volcanic soil can be loose underfoot. Always bring water, sun protection, and a windbreaker as the open landscape offers little natural shelter.
Travel Tips and Practical Information
Best Time to Visit:
- September through June offers pleasant temperatures and less crowded winery experiences
- August brings harvest activities but can be quite hot and is peak tourist season
- January-February provides beautiful contrasts between green vines and black soil
Transportation:
- Renting a car is highly recommended for flexibility in exploring La Geria
- Public buses connect major towns but have limited schedules
- Guided tours with transportation are available from major resort areas
- Taxis can be expensive for a full day of exploration
Winery Visits:
- Most wineries are open Monday-Saturday, 10:30am-6:30pm
- Some require advance reservations, especially for guided tours
- Tasting fees typically range from €3-8, often waived with wine purchases
- Many bodegas offer shipping services for sending wines home
What to Bring:
- Sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses) – the volcanic landscape offers little shade
- Wind-resistant jacket – the area can be quite windy year-round
- Camera – the unique landscape is extremely photogenic
- Cash – some smaller bodegas have limited card facilities
Local Etiquette:
- Always ask before walking among the vines – these are working agricultural areas
- Purchase at least a small bottle when visiting family-run bodegas
- Learn a few basic Spanish phrases – much appreciated by local producers
Accessibility Information:
- Many major wineries have wheelchair-accessible tasting rooms
- The volcanic terrain makes some vineyard areas challenging for those with mobility issues
- Call ahead to specific bodegas to inquire about accessibility options
Final Thoughts
La Geria stands as a powerful reminder of human resilience and creativity. What began as a catastrophic natural disaster transformed into one of the world’s most distinctive agricultural landscapes through human ingenuity and determination. This remarkable wine region offers visitors much more than just wine tasting—it provides a window into sustainable farming practices developed centuries before sustainability became a global concern.
The stark beauty of La Geria’s black volcanic fields dotted with thousands of hand-built stone crescents creates a landscape that feels almost otherworldly, yet deeply connected to human history. Each stone wall and carefully tended vine represents countless hours of human effort and generations of agricultural knowledge.
Beyond its visual appeal and excellent wines, La Geria reminds us that sometimes the most beautiful transformations emerge from disaster. The region stands as a testament to looking at challenges differently—seeing possibility where others might see only devastation.
Whether you’re cycling through the vineyard landscape, hiking volcanic trails, sampling unique wines, or simply standing in awe of the remarkable vista, La Geria offers an experience that engages all senses and leaves visitors with a deeper appreciation for the relationship between nature, culture, and human innovation. In a world of increasingly homogenized travel experiences, La Geria remains refreshingly unique—a true one-of-a-kind destination that rewards those willing to venture beyond Lanzarote’s beautiful beaches to discover its extraordinary heart.
