Nestled deep within the rugged landscape of the Croatia–Bosnia border lies one of the most enigmatic and haunting remnants of the Cold War—the abandoned Željava Air Base. Once the largest underground military airport and airbase in the former Yugoslavia, Željava is now a decaying monument to a bygone era, attracting urban explorers, history enthusiasts, and those with a taste for the eerie and the extraordinary. This sprawling complex, hidden beneath the surface, offers a unique and unforgettable experience for those daring enough to venture into its dark and silent tunnels.
A Cold War Fortress: Željava Air Base, also known as “Objekat 505,” was constructed during the height of the Cold War, between 1948 and 1968, at an estimated cost of over $6 billion. Designed to withstand a nuclear attack, the base was built deep into the Plješevica Mountain, with five runways, extensive underground tunnels, and facilities that could accommodate up to 80 aircraft. The airbase was a critical military asset for the Yugoslav People’s Army, serving as a key strategic point for defending the nation against potential invasions from NATO or the Soviet Union.
Exploring the Underground Maze: Today, Željava Air Base is a shadow of its former self, having been abandoned and partially destroyed during the Yugoslav Wars in the 1990s. The base was intentionally detonated by retreating forces to prevent its use by enemy troops, leaving behind a labyrinth of damaged runways, collapsed tunnels, and crumbling infrastructure. Despite the devastation, the remnants of Željava still exude a sense of grandeur and mystery, offering a rare glimpse into the military might of the former Yugoslavia.
Visitors to Željava can explore the eerie, pitch-black tunnels that stretch for kilometers beneath the mountain. These tunnels, once bustling with military activity, now lie silent and abandoned, their walls scarred by the passage of time and conflict. Graffiti from the war, along with remnants of military equipment and vehicles, can still be found within the tunnels, adding to the site’s haunting atmosphere. For those interested in urban exploration, Željava is a treasure trove of hidden corners and forgotten spaces, each with its own story to tell.
A Unique Travel Experience: Visiting Željava Air Base is not for the faint-hearted. The site is officially off-limits, and the area is still riddled with unexploded ordnance, making exploration potentially dangerous. However, guided tours are available for those who wish to explore the base safely, offering insights into its history and significance. The base’s remote location, straddling the Croatia-Bosnia border, adds an extra layer of intrigue, as visitors must navigate through a landscape that was once a frontline in the Yugoslav Wars.
For photographers, Željava offers a unique opportunity to capture the stark contrast between the base’s decaying structures and the stunning natural beauty of the surrounding mountains and forests. The juxtaposition of man-made destruction and nature’s resilience makes for powerful and evocative imagery.
Reflecting on History: Željava Air Base stands as a poignant reminder of the Cold War’s tense and turbulent history. It is a place where the past lingers in the air, where the echoes of a divided world can still be felt in the silence of its abandoned tunnels. For those who seek to understand the complexities of the 20th century, a visit to Željava is both a sobering and enlightening experience.
While Željava Air Base may not be on the typical tourist trail, it offers an unparalleled experience for those interested in history, military architecture, and urban exploration. Its haunting beauty and historical significance make it a must-visit destination for adventurous travelers looking to uncover the hidden stories of the past. Just remember to tread carefully—both literally and metaphorically—as you explore this forgotten relic of the Cold War.