Situated on the eastern edge of Fogo Island in Newfoundland and Labrador, the fishing village of Tilting feels like a place frozen in time. This charming settlement, with its salt-weathered fishing stages and colorful houses clinging to rocky shores, offers visitors an authentic glimpse into traditional Newfoundland outport life. What makes Tilting truly special is its remarkably preserved Irish heritage – one of the most intact examples of Irish settlement in North America.
When you first arrive in Tilting, you’ll notice something different about the rhythm of life here. The rushing of modern existence seems to slow down, replaced by the steady pulse of the Atlantic Ocean against the shore. Locals, known for their warm hospitality and distinctive Irish-influenced accents, still practice many of the traditions their ancestors brought from southeastern Ireland in the 18th century.
Despite its small size, Tilting punches well above its weight in terms of cultural significance. The entire community was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 2003 and a Provincial Heritage District in 2012 – recognitions that speak to its unique cultural landscape where Irish traditions blend seamlessly with adaptations to the harsh North Atlantic environment.
Whether you’re coming to disconnect from the modern world, explore your Irish roots, photograph the iconic saltbox houses, or simply experience a way of life that’s rapidly disappearing elsewhere, Tilting offers an authentic maritime experience that visitors describe as nothing short of transformative.
History at a Glance
Tilting’s story begins with seasonal fishing camps established by French and English fishermen in the early 1700s. However, it was Irish immigrants, primarily from County Waterford and neighboring counties in southeastern Ireland, who began permanent settlement in the mid-18th century. These early settlers were drawn by the rich fishing grounds off Fogo Island’s shores.
Unlike many Irish communities that lost their distinctive cultural identity through assimilation, Tilting remained remarkably isolated well into the 20th century. This isolation preserved unique aspects of Irish heritage, including distinctive linguistic features, traditional music, storytelling traditions, and foodways that have largely disappeared elsewhere.
Tilting’s history is intrinsically tied to the cod fishery. For generations, the community thrived on inshore fishing, with families catching and processing cod using methods passed down through generations. The traditional practice of “making fish” – splitting, salting, and drying cod on wooden flakes – was central to community life until the 1992 cod moratorium devastated the local economy.
The village has weathered many challenges, from harsh North Atlantic winters to the collapse of the cod fishery. Yet Tilting has shown remarkable resilience. Today, while fishing remains important, the community has adapted through heritage tourism and the influence of the internationally acclaimed Fogo Island Inn, which has brought new attention and visitors to this remote corner of Newfoundland.
Location/Coordinates
- Coordinates: 49°42′N 54°04′W
- Province: Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
- Island: Fogo Island (the largest of Newfoundland’s offshore islands)
- Distance from Gander: Approximately 125 km (includes ferry crossing)
- Distance from St. John’s: Approximately 430 km (includes ferry crossing)
Fun Facts
- Tilting is often called “the most Irish place in the world outside of Ireland” due to its well-preserved Irish heritage.
- The community was settled almost exclusively by Irish Catholics from a specific region of southeastern Ireland, primarily County Waterford.
- Many residents of Tilting still speak with accents and use expressions that have disappeared in Ireland itself.
- Tilting was the first entire community in Newfoundland and Labrador to be designated a Provincial Heritage District.
- Some families in Tilting have been fishing the same grounds for over 250 years.
- The community still maintains traditional “garden plots” for growing vegetables that are often separated from homes to take advantage of better soil.
- Tilting’s unique cultural landscape includes both saltwater (fishing stages and stores) and terrestrial (houses and gardens) components that demonstrate adaptation to the environment.
- Many houses in Tilting were literally moved – often across ice in winter – as family needs changed or better locations became available.
Reasons to Go
- Authentic Cultural Experience: Witness one of North America’s most intact Irish heritage communities.
- Stunning Coastal Scenery: Dramatic North Atlantic vistas with icebergs in spring and early summer.
- Photography Opportunities: Colorful fishing stages, traditional saltbox houses, and rugged landscapes provide endless inspiration.
- Hiking and Nature: Explore pristine coastal trails and spot diverse wildlife including whales, seabirds, and caribou.
- Local Cuisine: Taste traditional Newfoundland dishes with Irish influences.
- Peace and Tranquility: Experience the refreshing absence of commercialization and crowds.
- Genuine Interactions: Meet locals known for their storytelling traditions and hospitality.
- Artist Inspiration: Discover why Fogo Island has become an international destination for artists seeking creative renewal.
- Architectural Interest: See the contrast between centuries-old vernacular architecture and cutting-edge design of newer structures like the nearby Fogo Island Inn.
Main Attractions
- Oliver’s Cove: A picturesque fishing premises with traditional stages and stores
- Sandy Cove Beach: A rare sandy beach with swimming potential on warmer days
- Tilting Harbour: The heart of the community with traditional fishing stages
- St. Patrick’s Church: Historic church dating from 1860
- Lane House Museum: Preserved 19th-century saltbox house showcasing traditional living
- Dwyer Premises: Restored traditional fishing property
- Tilting Recreation and Cultural Centre: Hosts events and community gatherings
- The Old Post Office: Historic building now serving as a craft shop
- Traditional Gardens: Unique community vegetable plots
- Pierce’s Point: Spectacular lookout with panoramic views
Things To Do
- Guided Heritage Walk: Take a local-led tour through the community to learn about its unique history and architecture
- Boat Tours: Join a local fisherman for a tour of the harbor and nearby fishing grounds
- Berry Picking: Gather wild blueberries, partridgeberries, and bakeapples (cloudberries) in season
- Stargazing: Experience some of the least light-polluted skies in North America
- Bird Watching: Spot puffins, gannets, eagles, and numerous seabirds
- Photography Workshops: Several operators offer seasonal photography sessions
- Storytelling Sessions: Listen to local tales and music at community events
- Craft Demonstrations: Watch traditional skills being practiced including knitting, quilting, and boat building
Culinary Adventures
Tilting’s food culture reflects its Irish heritage adapted to Newfoundland’s unique environment:
- Fish and Brewis: A traditional dish of salt cod and hardtack bread rehydrated and served with scrunchions (fried salt pork)
- Jiggs Dinner: The classic Newfoundland Sunday meal with salt beef, root vegetables, and pease pudding
- Toutons: Fried bread dough served with molasses
- Cod Tongues: A local delicacy often served fried with scrunchions
- Figgy Duff: A traditional boiled pudding with raisins
- Bakeapple Desserts: Tarts and jams made from the prized local cloudberry
- Screech: The infamous Newfoundland rum, often used in “screech-in” ceremonies for visitors
Where to taste these specialties:
- Nicole’s Café: Serving traditional dishes with contemporary touches
- Local Kitchen Parties: If you’re lucky enough to be invited to a community gathering
- Seasonal Community Suppers: Often advertised at the community center
Events Not to Miss
- St. Patrick’s Day Celebrations (March): Authentic Irish festivities with music and dance
- Fogo Island Partridgeberry Festival (Early October): Celebrating the local berry harvest
- Fisherman’s Day (June): Traditional competitions and demonstrations of fishing skills
- Summer Garden Party at St. Patrick’s Church (July): Community gathering with food and music
- Christmas Mummering (December): The traditional Newfoundland custom of disguised house visits
- Old Christmas Day (January 6): Traditional celebration marking the end of the Christmas season
- Tilting Days (August): Community celebration with music, food and cultural demonstrations
Cycling
While Tilting itself is small enough to explore on foot, cycling is a great way to experience Fogo Island:
- Tilting-to-Seldom Route: A moderate 7 km ride connecting these historic communities
- Shoal Bay Road: Gentle terrain with beautiful coastal views
- Island-wide Loop: For experienced cyclists, the approximately 30 km route around much of Fogo Island
- Bicycle Rentals: Available seasonally in nearby Fogo
Note that roads can be narrow with limited shoulders. Traffic is generally light, but caution is advised, especially in foggy conditions.
Hiking Trails
- Oliver’s Cove Path: 1.2 km easy loop offering spectacular views of the harbor
- Turpin’s Trail: 5 km moderate path connecting Tilting with Joe Batt’s Arm
- Brimstone Head Trail: Though not in Tilting proper, this nearby trail leads to one of the “four corners of the Earth” according to the Flat Earth Society
- Sandy Cove Beach Trail: Easy 1 km path to a beautiful sandy beach
- Fogo Head Path: Challenging 5 km trek to stunning viewpoints (in nearby Fogo)
Travel Tips and Practical Information
- Best Time to Visit: June through September offers milder weather. May-June is best for icebergs.
- Getting There:
- Fly to Gander International Airport, then drive to Farewell for the ferry to Fogo Island
- Ferry schedule varies seasonally – check in advance and arrive early
- Tilting is about 25 minutes by car from the Fogo Island ferry terminal
- Accommodation:
- Limited options in Tilting itself – book well in advance
- More options in nearby communities
- The world-famous Fogo Island Inn is 15 minutes away (high-end)
- Weather Considerations:
- Pack layers – weather can change rapidly
- Fog is common, especially in spring
- Waterproof clothing and good walking shoes are essential
- Services:
- Limited cell service in some areas
- No banks in Tilting – nearest ATM is in Fogo
- Stock up on supplies in larger towns before arriving
- Cultural Etiquette:
- Always ask permission before photographing private property
- Respect fishing premises and equipment
- Locals appreciate visitors who show genuine interest in their heritage
Nearby Attractions and Points of Interest
- Fogo Island Inn: Award-winning luxury hotel with stunning architecture, 15 minutes from Tilting
- Fogo Island Arts: Artist residency program with contemporary gallery space
- Joe Batt’s Arm: Nearby community with additional services and attractions
- Brimstone Head: One of the “four corners of the Earth” according to the Flat Earth Society
- Fogo Craft Brewery: Sample local craft beers in the town of Fogo
- Marconi Wireless Interpretation Centre: Communications history in the community of Change Islands (separate ferry required)
- Little Fogo Islands: Uninhabited islands visible from Tilting that were once home to fishing communities
- Fogo Island Marine Interpretation Centre: Learn about local marine life and fishing heritage
- Deep Bay: Picturesque community with hiking opportunities
- Change Islands: Nearby island community accessible by ferry with the famous Newfoundland Pony Sanctuary
Final Thoughts
Tilting represents something increasingly rare in our world – a place where time moves differently, where heritage is lived rather than performed, and where the connection between people and landscape remains profound. In an age of mass tourism and Instagram-ready destinations, Tilting offers something more authentic and lasting.
Visitors to this special corner of Newfoundland come away with more than just photographs; they gain insight into a way of life shaped by both remarkable resilience and genuine community. The village stands as a testament to how isolated communities adapted to challenging environments while maintaining cultural traditions across generations.
As you leave Tilting, you might find yourself carrying away something intangible yet precious – a renewed appreciation for community, tradition, and the simple rhythms of life connected to land and sea. And like many visitors before you, you may find yourself already planning your return to this remarkable place where Ireland and Newfoundland meet at the edge of the North Atlantic.
