Żebbuġ | Qolla l-Bajda Battery

TL;DR: Żebbuġ | Qolla l-Bajda Battery , Żebbuġ is Gozo’s quiet gem where you’ll find authentic Maltese village life, stunning baroque churches, and the historic Qolla l-Bajda Battery with jaw-dropping coastal views. Skip the tourist crowds in Victoria and spend a few hours exploring where locals actually live—complete with sunset views that’ll blow your Instagram feed wide open.

What Makes Żebbuġ Special? (Spoiler: Pretty Much Everything)

Look, I’ll be honest with you. When most travelers hit Gozo, they bee-line for the Azure Window site, Ramla Bay, or Victoria’s Citadel. And sure, those spots are great. But if you want to experience the real Gozo—the one where grandmothers still hang laundry on balconies and neighbors actually know each other’s names—Żebbuġ is your place.

This isn’t a village that’s been Disney-fied for tourists. It’s just… authentically Maltese. And that’s exactly why it’s worth your time.

The Village That Time Remembered (In the Best Way)

Żebbuġ (pronounced “ZEB-booj”—locals will appreciate you trying) sits in central-western Gozo, about 3 kilometers from Victoria. The name means “olives” in Maltese, though you’ll notice more prickly pear cacti these days than olive groves.

What you will notice: honey-colored limestone buildings, narrow winding streets that were definitely not designed for cars, and a slower pace of life that feels like stepping back fifty years. In the best possible way.

The Churches: Because Malta Takes Its Baroque Seriously

Church of the Assumption (Il-Knisja Kbira)

Here’s the thing about Maltese villages—every single one tries to outdo the others with their parish church. Żebbuġ is no exception, and honestly? They crushed it.

The Church of the Assumption dominates the village skyline with its distinctive dome that you can spot from pretty much anywhere in central Gozo. Built between 1690 and 1726, this isn’t just a church—it’s basically a baroque masterpiece that rivals anything you’ll find in Valletta.

What you can’t miss inside:

• Ceiling frescoes by Giovanni Battista Conti that’ll have you lying on pews to get the full effect
• Marble work that probably cost more than most people’s houses
• An ornate altar that’s basically dripping in gold leaf
• Paintings by Stefano Erardi (if you know, you know)

Pro tip: Visit on a Sunday morning around 10 AM when locals attend Mass. You’ll get the full sensory experience—incense, hymns, the works. Just be respectful and dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered, friends).

The Rivalry You Didn’t Know You Needed

Here’s some local tea: Żebbuġ actually has two parishes within one village. The other church, dedicated to the Sacred Heart, creates a friendly (read: intensely competitive) rivalry during feast celebrations. If you’re visiting in June or August, you might catch one of these village festas where the streets explode with decorations, brass bands, and fireworks that would make the Fourth of July jealous.

Qolla l-Bajda Battery: Your New Favorite Sunset Spot

Now we’re getting to the real hidden gem. About 1.5 kilometers northwest of Żebbuġ village, perched on dramatic cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean, sits Qolla l-Bajda Battery.

The History Bit (I Promise It’s Interesting)

Built in 1715-1716 by the Knights of St. John, this coastal battery was part of Malta’s extensive fortification network. The Knights weren’t messing around when it came to defending against Ottoman raids and Barbary pirates.

The battery originally housed artillery pieces that could blast any unwelcome ships foolish enough to approach Gozo’s northwestern coast. While the cannons are long gone, the structure remains remarkably intact—a testament to Knights-era engineering.

Fun fact: “Qolla l-Bajda” translates to “white hill” or “white height,” named after the pale limestone cliffs it sits on.

Why You Should Actually Visit

Forget the history lesson for a second. Here’s why Qolla l-Bajda Battery deserves a spot on your itinerary:

The views are absolutely ridiculous. We’re talking unobstructed panoramas of the Mediterranean stretching to the horizon, rugged cliffside scenery that looks like something from Game of Thrones, and on clear days, you can see Malta’s main island in the distance.

It’s gloriously empty. While everyone else is fighting for elbow room at Dwejra, you’ll likely have this place to yourself or share it with maybe a handful of other explorers. This is peak Mediterranean experience without the peak-season crowds.

The sunset game is unmatched. Golden hour here hits different. The sun dips into the sea, painting everything in oranges and pinks, while the ancient stone walls glow. Bring your camera, your significant other, or just yourself and a good bottle of Maltese wine.

Access is easy. Unlike some coastal fortifications that require goat-like climbing abilities, Qolla l-Bajda is accessible via a short walk from where you can park your rental car or scooter.

How to Actually Get There (Without Getting Lost)

Transportation Options

Renting a car or scooter: Honestly, this is your best bet for exploring Gozo at your own pace. The island is small—you can drive across it in 30 minutes—so even nervous drivers can handle it. Plus, you’ll need wheels to easily reach Qolla l-Bajda Battery.

From Victoria: Head west on Triq ir-Repubblika toward Gharb, turn north toward Żebbuġ. The whole drive takes about 10 minutes.

Bus: Gozo’s bus network is improving, but it’s still… let’s say “relaxed” in its timing. Routes 305 and 330 connect Victoria to Żebbuġ village. From there, reaching Qolla l-Bajda means a roughly 20-25 minute walk along country roads. Doable? Yes. Ideal in August heat? Maybe not.

Organized tours: Some Gozo day tours include Żebbuġ, though most rush through. If you’re short on time or prefer guided context, this works. Just know you won’t get the leisurely exploration these places deserve.

Navigating to Qolla l-Bajda Battery

Once in Żebbuġ village, follow signs toward the coast (west/northwest). You’ll want to head toward Wied il-Mielaħ. The battery sits on the cliffs overlooking this small bay.

GPS coordinates: 36.0847° N, 14.2389° E (because Google Maps can be wonky with Maltese place names)

Parking: There’s informal parking along the road near the battery. Nothing fancy, just pull off where it’s safe and walk the last bit.

Best Times to Visit

Season-Wise

Spring (March-May): Absolute perfection. Wildflowers carpet the countryside, temperatures hover in the pleasant 18-23°C range, and tourist numbers haven’t peaked yet. This is when locals love their island most.

Summer (June-August): Hot. Like, really hot (28-35°C). But if you’re okay with heat and want that quintessential Mediterranean summer vibe, go for it. Festa season is in full swing. Just visit the battery either early morning or for sunset—midday will cook you.

Fall (September-November): Another sweet spot. The sea is warmest for swimming, temperatures mellow out, and you get that gorgeous golden light that photographers obsess over.

Winter (December-February): Mild by most standards (12-16°C), but can be windy and rainy. The countryside turns incredibly green, and you’ll have places almost entirely to yourself. Churches are spectacular during Christmas season.

Time of Day

For Qolla l-Bajda Battery: Sunset is the magic hour, typically between 5:30-7:30 PM depending on season. Arrive about 45 minutes early to explore and claim your spot.

For Żebbuġ village: Morning (9-11 AM) when locals are out shopping and cafés are buzzing with activity. Or late afternoon (4-6 PM) when the light turns golden and the village takes on an almost ethereal quality.

What to Do: Beyond the Obvious

In Żebbuġ Village

Wander with purpose (but no real destination): Seriously, the best way to experience Żebbuġ is to get slightly lost in its streets. You’ll stumble upon tiny shrines, architectural details you’d miss rushing through, and glimpses into local courtyards that feel frozen in time.

Stop at a local café: Grab a pastizz (Malta’s answer to the savory pastry) and a Kinnie (local bitter orange soda) at a village bar. Strike up a conversation with locals—Gozitans are remarkably friendly and often eager to share stories about their village.

Check out local workshops: Żebbuġ maintains some traditional craftspeople. If you’re lucky, you might find lacemakers or stone carvers working in small studios. Ask around—this isn’t advertised to tourists.

Village feast preparations: If you’re visiting in the weeks leading up to feast day, you might catch locals making decorations, practicing with brass bands, or organizing fireworks displays. The community energy is incredible.

At Qolla l-Bajda Battery

Explore the fortification: Wander through the battery structure itself. You can climb onto the platform where cannons once sat and imagine defending this coastline centuries ago.

Cliff walking: The area around the battery offers rough coastal paths for adventurous hikers. The views from different vantage points are stunning, but watch your footing—these are unmanicured trails.

Photography: Whether you’re working with a professional camera or your smartphone, this place is a content creator’s dream. The combination of historic architecture, dramatic cliffs, and Mediterranean light is unbeatable.

Stargazing: With minimal light pollution, clear nights here offer spectacular star-viewing. The Milky Way is often visible to the naked eye. Bring a blanket and make an evening of it.

Picnicking: Pack some local bread, cheese, olives, and wine from Victoria’s market, and have a sunset picnic. Just remember to take all trash with you—let’s keep these places pristine for everyone.

Where to Eat and Drink

Żebbuġ isn’t packed with restaurants (remember, authentic village), but here’s what you need to know:

In the village: A couple of traditional Maltese bars serve simple food—think rabbit stew, bragioli (beef olives), and pasta. These aren’t fancy establishments, but the food is home-cooked quality and ridiculously affordable.

The smart move: Hit up Victoria before visiting Żebbuġ. Stock up at Ta’ Rikardu (near the Citadel) for local cheese, sausage, and wine. Or grab fresh bread from a bakery—the smell alone is worth it.

Nearby dining: Within 5-10 minutes drive, you’ll find:

• Gharb has several good restaurants with countryside views
• Marsalforn (coastal village 15 minutes away) offers waterfront seafood dining
• Victoria has the densest concentration of dining options on the island

Practical Stuff You Actually Need to Know

What to Bring

To Qolla l-Bajda Battery:

• Sunscreen and hat (shade is nonexistent)
• Comfortable walking shoes (not flip-flops—terrain can be rocky)
• Water (there are no facilities out here)
• Camera/phone with full battery
• Light jacket for cooler months or evening breezes
• Flashlight if you’re planning sunset viewing (for the walk back)

For village exploration:

• Modest clothing for church visits (shoulders and knees covered)
• Small backpack for any purchases or picnic supplies
• Curiosity and openness to slow travel

Money and Costs

This is refreshingly cheap compared to most European destinations.

• Entry fees: Zero. Nada. Both the village and battery are free to explore.
• Parking: Free informal parking
• Food: A pastizz costs about €0.50-0.80. A full meal at a local bar? Maybe €8-12.
• Fuel: If renting a vehicle, Gozo’s small size means you’ll use minimal gas

Safety and Etiquette

Safety: Gozo is extremely safe. Crime against tourists is rare. Main concerns are typical travel stuff—watch cliff edges, stay hydrated in summer, drive carefully on narrow village streets.

Cultural etiquette:

• Dress modestly when entering churches
• Greet locals with a friendly “bongu” (bon-ju) or “bonswa” (bon-swa)
• Ask permission before photographing people
• Respect that this is a living village, not a theme park
• Keep noise down in residential areas
• Take all trash with you from natural sites

Religious respect: Malta is deeply Catholic. Even if you’re not religious, treat churches as the sacred spaces locals consider them to be.

Combining Żebbuġ with Other Gozo Spots

Smart travelers combine Żebbuġ with nearby attractions for a full day:

The Western Gozo Circuit (full day): Morning: Victoria’s Citadel and market → Żebbuġ village exploration → Lunch → Qolla l-Bajda Battery → Gharb village → Wied il-Għasri gorge → Sunset at Dwejra

The Quiet Gozo Route (half day): Żebbuġ village → Qolla l-Bajda Battery → San Lawrenz village → Ta’ Pinu Basilica

The Active Option (for hikers): Start at Wied il-Mielaħ, coastal walk to Qolla l-Bajda Battery, continue to Wied il-Għasri, loop back through countryside to Żebbuġ village

Accommodations Near Żebbuġ

While Żebbuġ doesn’t have hotels, nearby options include:

In Żebbuġ itself: A few guesthouses and traditional farmhouse rentals (perfect for authentic experiences)

Gharb (5 minutes away): Several boutique hotels and farmhouse conversions with pools

Victoria (5 minutes away): Widest range of accommodations, from budget guesthouses to upscale hotels

Marsalforn (15 minutes away): Seaside hotels if you want beach access

Pro tip: Book a traditional Gozitan farmhouse with a pool somewhere central. You’ll get authentic architecture, modern amenities, and easy access to the entire island.

Why This Matters (The Bigger Picture)

Here’s the thing about places like Żebbuġ and Qolla l-Bajda Battery—they represent a different kind of travel. One that values depth over breadth, authentic experiences over Instagram checkboxes.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying skip the Azure Window site or Ramla Bay. But when every travel guide lists the same ten places, the real treasures often hide in plain sight. These are the spots that remind us why we travel in the first place—to connect with places, people, and histories different from our own.

Żebbuġ won’t bombard you with tourist infrastructure or guided tour groups. What it offers is rarer: a glimpse into how Mediterranean islanders have actually lived for centuries, the satisfaction of discovering something yourself, and the reminder that sometimes the best experiences come from simply slowing down.

Recap: Your Żebbuġ and Qolla l-Bajda Checklist

Let’s make this actionable. Here’s your essential checklist:

✅ Rent a car or scooter for maximum flexibility (seriously, don’t skip this)

✅ Visit the Church of the Assumption early in your Żebbuġ exploration

✅ Wander Żebbuġ’s streets without a map for 30-45 minutes (embrace getting slightly lost)

✅ Grab a pastizz and Kinnie from a local bar to fuel your adventure

✅ Drive to Qolla l-Bajda Battery in the late afternoon

✅ Arrive 45 minutes before sunset to explore the fortification

✅ Watch the sunset from the battery platform (bring your camera)

✅ Pack a picnic with local goodies from Victoria’s market

✅ Dress modestly for church visits (shoulders and knees covered)

✅ Bring water, sunscreen, and good walking shoes (no facilities at the battery)

✅ Take all trash with you and leave these places pristine for future travelers

Disclaimer

This travel guide reflects conditions and information accurate as of early 2025. Travel situations can change—road conditions, opening hours, local regulations, and accessibility may vary. Always verify critical information before your trip.

Safety first: Qolla l-Bajda Battery is an unguarded historic site on coastal cliffs. Exercise caution near cliff edges, especially in windy conditions or with children. The author and publisher assume no liability for accidents or injuries.

Respect local communities: Żebbuġ is a living village, not a tourist attraction. Residents’ privacy and property should always be respected.

Cultural sensitivity: Malta is a predominantly Catholic nation with traditional values. Visitors should dress and behave respectfully, particularly in religious sites.

Driving considerations: Gozo’s roads can be narrow, winding, and challenging for those unaccustomed to them. Rent vehicles only if you’re comfortable with these conditions. Malta drives on the left.

Seasonal variations: Mediterranean weather can be unpredictable. Summer heat can be intense; winter can bring rain and wind. Plan accordingly.

No commercial affiliations: This guide doesn’t receive compensation from any businesses, accommodations, or service providers mentioned. Recommendations are based on genuine experience and research.

Up-to-date information: For the latest on opening hours, events, transportation schedules, and any restrictions, check official Gozo tourism resources or contact local visitor information centers before your visit.

Most importantly: travel insurance is always recommended for international trips. Stay hydrated, wear sunscreen, and remember that the best travel experiences often come from staying flexible and open to whatever happens.

Now get out there and discover why Żebbuġ and Qolla l-Bajda Battery are the Gozo experiences you didn’t know you needed. Trust me, your future self will thank you.