Situated in the lush green mountains of Asturias in northern Spain, Covadonga is a hidden gem that combines breathtaking natural beauty with rich historical significance. This sacred site, tucked away in the Picos de Europa National Park, offers visitors a unique blend of spiritual heritage, stunning landscapes, and outdoor adventures that remain surprisingly uncrowded compared to Spain’s more famous destinations.
The moment you arrive in Covadonga, you’re greeted by the striking pink basilica standing proudly against the mountainous backdrop, while nearby, a holy cave shrine contains the tomb of Pelayo, the warrior who began the Christian reconquest of Spain. Beyond its religious significance, Covadonga serves as a gateway to some of Spain’s most spectacular natural settings, including crystalline lakes, verdant forests, and dramatic mountain peaks. Whether you’re a history buff, nature enthusiast, pilgrim, or adventure seeker, Covadonga promises an authentic Spanish experience far from the beaten tourist track, where ancient legends come alive amid some of the most picturesque landscapes in Europe.
History at a Glance
The story of Covadonga is etched deeply into Spanish national identity as the birthplace of the Reconquista, the centuries-long campaign to reclaim the Iberian Peninsula from Moorish rule. In 722 CE, the Christian nobleman Pelayo and his small band of followers achieved what seemed impossible – defeating a much larger Muslim army in the Battle of Covadonga. According to legend, Pelayo took refuge in a cave where he prayed to the Virgin Mary for victory. Following his unexpected triumph, this cave became a sacred site, and Pelayo established the Kingdom of Asturias, the first Christian kingdom in post-Islamic conquest Spain.
The cave sanctuary, known as the Holy Cave of Covadonga (Santa Cueva de Covadonga), soon became a pilgrimage destination, housing a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary known as La Santina. Over centuries, the site’s religious significance grew, though it remained a relatively simple shrine until the late 19th century.
In 1878, construction began on the magnificent Neo-Romanesque Basilica of Covadonga, designed by architect Roberto Frassinelli, which wasn’t completed until 1901. The striking pink basilica, built from local limestone, now stands as a monument to the area’s religious and historical importance. Adding to Covadonga’s historical significance, the surrounding Picos de Europa mountains were declared Spain’s first national park in 1918, preserving both the cultural and natural heritage of this remarkable region.
Today, Covadonga represents a cornerstone of Spanish religious history and national identity, attracting pilgrims and tourists alike who come to experience its unique blend of spiritual significance and natural splendor.
Fun Facts
- Holy Water Source: The Holy Cave features a fountain with seven spouts. Local legend says that drinking from these spouts brings good luck, and many unmarried women drink from them hoping to find a husband within the year!
- Pink Basilica Mystery: The Basilica of Covadonga’s distinctive pink color isn’t paint – it comes from the natural pinkish hue of the local limestone. Over time, the color has deepened due to oxidation and weather exposure.
- Royal Connections: King Alfonso I of Asturias, Pelayo’s son-in-law, is buried in the Holy Cave alongside Pelayo and his wife Gaudiosa.
- Bear Country: The surrounding Picos de Europa is home to one of Spain’s last populations of wild Cantabrian brown bears, though they’re extremely shy and rarely spotted.
- Cheese Caves: The limestone mountains around Covadonga are perfect for aging the famous regional blue cheese Cabrales, which matures in natural caves for 2-5 months.
- Annual Miracle: Every September 8th during the Feast of Covadonga, locals claim the water flowing inside the Holy Cave mysteriously stops for the day, considered a divine miracle by believers.
- Sporting Connection: The steep climb to the Lagos de Covadonga has become one of the most iconic and challenging ascents in professional cycling, regularly featured in the Vuelta a España (Tour of Spain).
Reasons to Go
- Religious Significance: Experience one of Spain’s most important Catholic pilgrimage sites, where faith, history, and natural beauty intersect.
- Untouched Nature: Explore pristine landscapes far from overtourism, with crystal-clear lakes, ancient forests, and mountain peaks that rival any in Europe.
- Cultural Immersion: Witness authentic Asturian culture, including traditional music, dance, and cuisine that remains largely unchanged for generations.
- Adventure Opportunities: From world-class hiking to challenging cycling routes, caving, and wildlife spotting, Covadonga offers outdoor activities for all levels.
- Photographic Paradise: Capture stunning landscapes that change dramatically with the seasons, from snow-capped peaks to misty autumn forests and wildflower-covered spring meadows.
- Gastronomic Delights: Sample regional specialties like fabada (bean stew), cachopo (breaded veal fillets), and artisanal cheeses paired with Asturian cider.
- Historical Depth: Walk in the footsteps of ancient warriors and kings at the birthplace of the Spanish Reconquista.
Main Attractions
- Holy Cave of Covadonga (Santa Cueva): The spiritual heart of Covadonga, this natural cave sanctuary contains the tomb of Pelayo, a statue of La Santina (Virgin of Covadonga), and the sacred fountain.
- Basilica of Covadonga: The striking pink Neo-Romanesque basilica dominates the landscape with its twin spires and houses the canonized statue of the Virgin Mary.
- Lakes of Covadonga (Lagos de Covadonga): The glacial lakes Enol and Ercina, located at 1,000 meters above sea level, offer spectacular mountain views and serene natural beauty.
- Covadonga Museum: Located near the basilica, this small museum houses religious artifacts, historical documents, and exhibitions on the Battle of Covadonga.
- Pelayo’s Monument: A statue commemorating the visionary warrior who launched the Reconquista stands proudly in the central square.
- Royal Site of Covadonga: The entire complex, including the basilica, cave, and surrounding religious buildings, make up this important historical site.
- Buferrera Mines: Ancient Roman mining works near the lakes provide insights into the area’s industrial heritage.
- Mirador de la Reina (Queen’s Viewpoint): A scenic overlook offering panoramic views of the Picos de Europa mountains.
Things To Do
Pilgrimage and Religious Activities
- Attend Mass in the basilica or the atmospheric Holy Cave
- Participate in the Virgen de las Batallas procession (August 15th) or Feast of Covadonga (September 8th)
- Follow the traditional pilgrim route to the Holy Cave, completing the custom of touching the cross at the entrance and kissing the chapel’s stone
- Light a candle at the shrine of La Santina
Outdoor Adventures
- Hike the network of trails around the Lakes of Covadonga
- Challenge yourself on the iconic cycling climb to the lakes
- Go birdwatching for eagles, vultures, and other mountain species
- Take a horseback riding tour through the valleys
- Enjoy boat rentals on Lake Ercina during summer months
- Fish for trout in the mountain streams (permit required)
- Join guided nature walks with park rangers to learn about local ecology
Cultural Experiences
- Sample traditional Asturian cuisine at local restaurants
- Learn about cider-pouring traditions at a local sidrería
- Visit nearby traditional villages like Cangas de Onís with its Roman bridge
- Attend folk music performances featuring the regional bagpipe (gaita)
- Shop for artisanal products and handicrafts from local artisans
Photographing Covadonga
Covadonga is a photographer’s paradise with diverse shooting opportunities throughout the year. Here are the prime spots and tips for capturing the magic:
Best Photo Locations:
- The pink basilica against the mountain backdrop, especially at sunset when the limestone glows
- Reflections of mountains in the still waters of Lakes Enol and Ercina
- The Holy Cave with its atmospheric lighting and sacred fountain
- Misty mountain views from Mirador de la Reina
- Traditional shepherds’ huts (majadas) scattered across alpine meadows
- Ancient forests with gnarled trees covered in moss
- The Roman Bridge at nearby Cangas de Onís with its distinctive arch
Photography Tips:
- Early morning offers the best light for lake photography, especially when morning mist hovers over the water
- Bring a tripod for low-light photography inside the Holy Cave
- Wide-angle lenses work best for capturing the basilica and mountain landscapes
- Consider visiting during autumn when the foliage creates a spectacular color palette
- Winter snow transforms the landscape into a magical scene, though access may be limited
- Include people in your shots for scale when photographing the massive mountains
- During religious festivals, seek permission before photographing ceremonies and participants
Events Not to Miss
- Feast of Covadonga (September 8th): The biggest annual celebration featuring religious processions, traditional music, dance performances, and festive markets.
- Virgen de las Batallas (August 15th): A solemn procession commemorating the Virgin’s role in Pelayo’s victory with traditional costumes and ceremonies.
- Spring Pilgrimage (May): A traditional walking pilgrimage from various Asturian towns to Covadonga, with participants often wearing regional dress.
- Vuelta a España Stage (August/September): When the prestigious cycling race includes the Lagos de Covadonga climb, the atmosphere is electric with spectators lining the route.
- Cider Festival (October): Celebrating Asturias’s famous beverage with competitions for traditional long-pour serving and plenty of tastings.
- Cheese Festival (April): Showcasing the region’s world-class artisanal cheeses, particularly the famous Cabrales blue cheese.
- Transhumance Festival (June): Marking the ancient tradition of moving livestock to summer pastures in the mountains, featuring shepherd competitions and demonstrations.
Pilgrimage Routes
Covadonga stands as a significant pilgrimage destination with several traditional routes:
The Northern Camino de Santiago Connection
- The Northern Way (Camino del Norte) of the famous Camino de Santiago passes relatively close to Covadonga, allowing pilgrims to make a worthwhile detour to this sacred site.
- Many pilgrims combine their journey to Santiago de Compostela with a visit to Covadonga, especially those following the northern coastal route.
Traditional Asturian Pilgrimage Paths
- The most traditional approach is from Cangas de Onís, following ancient paths through forests and meadows.
- Local Asturian villages have maintained pilgrimage traditions for centuries, with pathways connecting distant communities to the sanctuary.
- Each spring, organized group pilgrimages follow these historical routes, with participants often walking for several days to reach Covadonga.
Modern Pilgrim Experiences
- The Ruta de la Reconquista traces Pelayo’s historical journey from the coast to Covadonga.
- Guided spiritual retreats often incorporate walks to the sanctuary as part of religious reflection.
- The approximately 12km journey from Cangas de Onís to Covadonga can be completed in one day, offering a accessible pilgrimage experience.
Cycling
Covadonga has secured its place in cycling legend primarily due to the challenging ascent to the Lagos de Covadonga:
The Iconic Lagos de Covadonga Climb
- This climb has featured in the Vuelta a España over 20 times since 1983
- 12.6km long with an average gradient of 7.3%, reaching heights of 1,134 meters
- Considered one of Spain’s most iconic cycling challenges, comparable to France’s Alpe d’Huez
- The final kilometers feature grueling sections with gradients over 13%
Other Cycling Routes
- Covadonga-Cangas de Onís Loop: A moderate 25km circuit perfect for experiencing the region’s diverse landscapes
- Picos de Europa Circuit: A challenging 80km route through the national park with multiple climbs
- Coastal Connection: For experienced cyclists, the 60km route connecting Covadonga to the Cantabrian coast offers stunning variety
Practical Cycling Information
- Multiple bike rental shops in Cangas de Onís offer quality road and mountain bikes
- Best cycling season is May through October, though summer afternoons can be hot
- Several local companies offer guided cycling tours with support vehicles
- Mountain bikes are recommended for exploring the network of unpaved trails around the lakes
Hiking Trails
The Picos de Europa National Park surrounding Covadonga offers some of Spain’s most spectacular hiking opportunities:
Lakes Circuit (Ruta de los Lagos)
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate
- Distance: 6km circular route
- Duration: 2-3 hours
- Highlights: Panoramic views of both Lake Enol and Lake Ercina, alpine meadows, and traditional shepherd huts
Vega de Ario Trail
- Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
- Distance: 16km round trip
- Duration: 6-7 hours
- Highlights: Dramatic limestone karst landscapes, sweeping valley views, and possible wildlife sightings
Ordiales Scenic Balcony Trail
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Distance: 22km round trip
- Duration: 7-8 hours
- Highlights: Spectacular viewpoints overlooking the Picos de Europa massif, diverse flora, and the memorial to Pedro Pidal, founder of the national park
Cares Gorge Connection
- Difficulty: Challenging
- Distance: 24km (one way)
- Duration: 8-9 hours
- Highlights: Connects Covadonga region to the famous Cares Gorge, passing through varying ecosystems and offering breathtaking views
Vegarredonda Mountain Refuge Route
- Difficulty: Challenging
- Distance: 18km round trip
- Duration: 7-8 hours
- Highlights: High mountain experience reaching the Vegarredonda Refuge at 1,420m altitude, with possible ibex sightings
Travel Tips and Practical Information
Getting There
- Nearest airports: Asturias Airport (OVD) about 110km away or Santander Airport (SDR) about 130km away
- By car: Approximately 15km from Cangas de Onís along the AS-262 road
- By bus: Regular services from Cangas de Onís to Covadonga, but limited schedules
- Private shuttle services available from major cities in northern Spain
Accommodation Options
- The Parador de Cangas de Onís: Luxury accommodation in a converted monastery
- Hotel Pelayo: Mid-range option within walking distance of the sanctuary
- Rural casas (guesthouses) in the surrounding villages
- Camping sites near the lakes (summer only)
- Mountain refuges for hikers in the Picos de Europa
Best Time to Visit
- Spring (April-June): Wildflowers blooming, mild temperatures, fewer crowds
- Summer (July-August): Warmest weather but busiest period, especially weekends
- Fall (September-October): Beautiful autumn colors, pleasant temperatures, festive atmosphere
- Winter (November-March): Possible snow at higher elevations, some access restrictions to the lakes, but magical snowy landscapes
Practical Considerations
- Driving to the Lagos de Covadonga is restricted during peak summer months; shuttle buses run frequently
- ATMs are limited in Covadonga itself; withdraw cash in Cangas de Onís
- Mobile phone coverage can be spotty in the mountains
- Bring layered clothing as mountain weather can change rapidly
- Comfortable walking shoes are essential even for non-hikers
- Respect religious sites by dressing appropriately (covered shoulders in the basilica)
Nearby Attractions and Points of Interest
- Historic town with a famous Roman bridge
- Local market on Sundays selling regional products
- Museum of the Reconquista documenting the area’s history
Ribadesella (30km)
- Charming coastal town with beautiful beaches
- Tito Bustillo Cave with prehistoric cave paintings
- Excellent seafood restaurants along the harbor
Picos de Europa Highlights (various distances)
- Fuente Dé cable car for easy access to high mountain views
- Cares Gorge, known as “Divine Gorge” for its spectacular trail
- Bulnes, a remote mountain village accessible only by funicular or hiking
- Sotres, the highest village in the Picos de Europa
Oviedo (75km)
- Asturias’ capital city with a beautiful historic center
- Pre-Romanesque churches designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites
- Excellent museums including the Fine Arts Museum of Asturias
Lastres (45km)
- Picturesque fishing village with stunning coastal views
- Famous for being the filming location of the popular Spanish TV series “Doctor Mateo”
- Outstanding seafood cuisine
Dinosaur Coast (40-60km)
- Jurassic coastline with dinosaur footprints and fossils
- Dinosaur Museum in Colunga
- Guided paleontological tours available
Final Thoughts
Covadonga represents the perfect blend of Spain’s diverse attractions – a place where history, religion, culture, and nature converge to create an unforgettable destination. What makes this corner of Asturias truly special is how it manages to preserve its authentic character despite its significance. Unlike many of Spain’s more famous destinations, here you can still find moments of solitude among the mountains, interact with locals who maintain centuries-old traditions, and connect with something deeper than typical tourist experiences.
Whether you’re watching the pink basilica emerge from morning mist, hiking along ancient shepherd paths, or simply enjoying the profound silence of the Lakes of Covadonga at dawn, this region offers the increasingly rare opportunity to experience Spain as it once was – wild, spiritual, and deeply connected to the land. For travelers seeking meaning beyond the usual tourist trail, Covadonga serves as both sanctuary and adventure, a place where Spain’s past, present, and natural beauty come together in perfect harmony.
As you leave Covadonga behind, you’ll carry with you not just photographs and memories, but a deeper appreciation for Spain’s complex heritage and the enduring power of its sacred places. In a world of overtourism and Instagram hotspots, Covadonga remains refreshingly genuine – a destination that rewards the curious traveler with experiences that truly matter.
