TL;DR: Costa Nova is a photogenic beach town on Portugal’s Silver Coast famous for its rainbow-colored striped houses, fresh seafood, wide sandy beaches, and chill vibe. It’s perfect for a day trip from Porto or Aveiro, offers stunning Atlantic sunsets, and feels like stepping into a vintage postcard—minus the crowds you’d find in the Algarve.
Look, I’m going to level with you: Costa Nova is one of those places that seems almost too pretty to be real. When you first catch sight of those iconic striped houses—locals call them palheiros—lined up like a row of beach candy, you’ll think someone’s messing with the saturation on your camera. But nope, they’re genuinely that vibrant.
This former fishing village, located between the Atlantic Ocean and the Ria de Aveiro lagoon, has quietly become one of Portugal’s most charming coastal escapes. And the best part? It hasn’t been completely overrun by tourists yet. Let’s dive into everything you need to know.
What Makes Costa Nova Special?
The striped houses are the main event, sure. Originally built as simple fishermen’s storage sheds and homes, these palheiros were painted in bold stripes of red, blue, green, and yellow so fishermen could spot them through the fog. Today, they’re beautifully preserved and range from tiny beach shacks to multi-story vacation homes.
But Costa Nova isn’t just about pretty facades. The beaches here are spectacular—wide, golden, and backed by dunes. The sand stretches for miles, giving you plenty of space to claim your spot without elbowing your neighbor. The waves can get lively, making it popular with surfers and bodyboarders, though there are calmer spots for families too.
Getting There and Getting Around
Costa Nova sits about 70 kilometers south of Porto and just 10 kilometers west of Aveiro (often called the “Venice of Portugal”). Here’s your transportation breakdown:
From Porto: Hop on a train to Aveiro (about an hour, €3-4), then catch the 10 bus toward Costa Nova (20 minutes, around €2). The buses run regularly in summer, less frequently off-season.
From Aveiro: Take bus line 10 directly to Costa Nova. Alternatively, rent bikes in Aveiro and cycle along the scenic lagoon path—it’s flat, gorgeous, and takes about 45 minutes.
By Car: If you’re driving, there’s free parking along Avenida José Estevão, though it fills up fast on summer weekends. Arrive before 11am or prepare to circle like a hungry seagull.
Once you’re in Costa Nova, everything’s walkable. The main strip of striped houses runs along a single beachfront avenue, and you can explore the whole area on foot in under an hour—though you’ll want to linger much longer.
When to Visit
Summer (June-August): Peak season brings warm weather, bustling beach energy, and packed restaurants. Water temperatures hit 17-19°C (chilly but refreshing). Arrive early to beat crowds and snag parking.
Spring/Fall (April-May, September-October): My personal favorite time. Milder weather, fewer visitors, and those golden-hour sunsets hit different when you’ve got the beach mostly to yourself. Some restaurants may have limited hours.
Winter (November-March): Quiet and moody, with dramatic Atlantic storms. Great for contemplative beach walks and fresh seafood without the crowds, but many spots close or reduce hours.
Beach Time: What to Expect
Costa Nova Beach (Praia da Costa Nova) stretches endlessly in both directions. The sand is fine and golden, perfect for sprawling out with a good book. The Atlantic here doesn’t mess around—waves can be powerful, and the water stays brisk even in summer. Lifeguards patrol during peak season, and there are designated swimming areas.
North of the main beach, you’ll find quieter stretches backed by dunes and pine forests. South toward Vagueira, the coastline continues virtually uninterrupted. Bring your own umbrella and towel, as chair rentals aren’t as common here as in the Algarve.
The beach has wooden walkways for accessibility, clean public bathrooms (near the main parking area), and outdoor showers. Surfing and bodyboarding are popular—several shops rent boards and offer lessons if you’re feeling adventurous.
Those Famous Striped Houses
Avenida José Estevão is where the magic happens. This is the main street lined with the photogenic palheiros in every color combination imaginable. Most are private residences or vacation rentals now, but wandering along admiring the architecture is free entertainment.
Pro tip: The light is best for photos early morning or late afternoon. Midday sun can wash out the colors. Also, be respectful—these are people’s homes, so don’t peer into windows or trample gardens for that perfect shot.
Eating Your Way Through Costa Nova
Fresh seafood is the name of the game here, and you’d be foolish not to indulge.
Casa de Chá da Ria: Perfect spot for afternoon coffee and pastries with lagoon views. Their ovos moles (sweet egg yolk treats from Aveiro) are dangerously good.
Restaurante Típico Costa Nova: Family-run spot serving generous portions of grilled fish, octopus, and traditional Portuguese rice dishes. Expect to wait for a table on weekends—it’s that popular.
Bar Costa Nova: Casual beachfront bar ideal for sunset drinks and petiscos (Portuguese tapas). The sardines here are perfection, especially with crusty bread and a cold beer.
O Golfinho: Another local favorite specializing in seafood caldeirada (stew) and cataplana (seafood in a copper pot). Portions are huge—consider sharing.
Most restaurants close between lunch and dinner service (typically 3-7pm), so plan accordingly. Credit cards are widely accepted, but having some cash never hurts.
Beyond the Beach: Things to Do
Explore the Lagoon: The Ria de Aveiro lagoon side of Costa Nova is calmer and equally beautiful. Rent a kayak or paddleboard to explore the channels and spot flamingos—yes, flamingos—who occasionally visit the salt pans.
Bike the Coast: Rent a bike and cruise the coastal path toward Praia da Barra to see the iconic striped lighthouse (tallest in Portugal). The ride is flat, scenic, and about 4 kilometers each way.
Visit Aveiro: A short bus or bike ride away, Aveiro offers colorful moliceiro boats, Art Nouveau architecture, canal tours, and excellent museums. It pairs perfectly with a Costa Nova day trip.
Sunset Watch: Find a spot on the beach or grab a drink at a beachfront bar and watch the sun melt into the Atlantic. It’s a nightly ritual here, and locals take it seriously.
Where to Stay
Costa Nova has limited accommodation compared to larger resort towns, which helps maintain its authentic vibe. Options include:
Vacation Rentals: Several palheiros are available on Airbnb and Booking.com. Waking up in a striped house is an experience, though book well ahead for summer.
Praia de Aveiro Aparthotel: Modern apartments with kitchenettes, a short walk from the beach. Good for families or longer stays.
Stay in Aveiro: Many visitors base themselves in Aveiro and day-trip to Costa Nova. You’ll have more restaurant and accommodation options, plus easy access to trains heading north or south.
Practical Tips
- Sun protection: The Atlantic breeze can be deceptive. Slather on that SPF generously.
- Layers: Even in summer, evenings can get breezy. Bring a light jacket.
- Cash: While cards work most places, smaller cafés and beach vendors prefer cash.
- Language: Basic Portuguese phrases go a long way. Most tourism-facing spots have English speakers, but locals appreciate the effort.
- Crowds: Weekends and August are busiest. Weekdays offer a more relaxed experience.
Making It Accessible for Everyone
Costa Nova has made efforts to improve accessibility. The beach has wooden walkways and accessible bathrooms near the main entrance. However, older restaurants and some shops may have steps or narrow doorways. The flat terrain makes it easier for wheelchair users to navigate the main streets, and several vacation rentals advertise accessible features.
Families with young children will find the wide beaches and calm lagoon side perfect for safe play. The town has a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere for visitors of all ages and backgrounds.
Final Thoughts
Costa Nova proves that Portugal still has coastal gems that haven’t been completely Instagrammed into oblivion—though those striped houses are certainly doing their best. This is a place to slow down, eat incredible seafood, walk barefoot on pristine sand, and remember why beach towns exist in the first place.
It’s not about ticking off attractions or rushing through a checklist. It’s about lingering over lunch, letting the afternoon disappear into the waves, and maybe, just maybe, understanding why those Portuguese fishermen chose to paint their homes in colors that make you smile.
Whether you come for a few hours or a few days, Costa Nova has this way of making you reconsider your life choices. You’ll find yourself mentally calculating if you could work remotely from a striped beach house, subsisting entirely on grilled octopus and pastéis de nata.
Spoiler alert: You probably can’t. But it’s a beautiful dream to have while you’re here.
Ready to add some stripes to your Portugal itinerary? Costa Nova is waiting, looking impossibly photogenic and smelling like the sea. Just remember to arrive hungry, bring your camera, and leave the rush at home.
