Bulnes (Cabrales)

TL;DR: Bulnes is a tiny mountain village (population 34) in Spain’s Picos de Europa that can only be reached by foot or funicular – no roads! It’s perfect for anyone seeking authentic Spanish mountain culture, spectacular hiking, and those Instagram-worthy views that’ll make your friends incredibly jealous.

Imagine a place where time seems to have stopped, where stone houses nestle between towering limestone peaks, and where the only sounds are mountain streams and the occasional bleat of goats. Welcome to Bulnes, arguably the most enchanting village in all of Asturias – and quite possibly the most remote spot you can visit without needing a helicopter.

Located in the heart of Spain’s first national park, this isn’t your typical Spanish destination. There are no beach clubs or tourist buses here. Instead, you’ll find something far more precious: authenticity, adventure, and views that’ll leave you speechless.

Why Bulnes Should Be Your Next Adventure

The Isolation Factor: Bulnes is one of nine parishes in Cabrales, with a population of 34 (INE 2011). No roads reach Bulnes, making it one of the last car-free villages in Spain. Until 2001, the only way to reach Bulnes was by a winding path, carved between rocks of extraordinary beauty.

The Instagram Worthy Scenery: Picture this – traditional Asturian stone houses scattered across emerald meadows, with the dramatic limestone spires of the Picos de Europa creating a backdrop that looks like it was painted by the gods. Bulnes is a picturesque mountain hamlet that boasts multiple viewpoints and offers some of the most spectacular mountain photography opportunities in northern Spain.

The Adventure Element: Whether you’re a casual hiker or an adrenaline junkie, Bulnes delivers. From gentle village strolls to challenging mountain ascents, there’s something for every adventure level.

Getting There: Your Gateway to Paradise

Coordinates: 43°14′N 4°49′W

Option 1: The Funicular Experience (For Comfort Seekers)

The funicular is run by the company Alsa and costs 22.16 Euros for a round-trip ticket. The Bulnes Funicular departs Poncebos every half hour. This engineering marvel takes you through a tunnel carved directly through the mountain – it’s like a roller coaster, but slower and with better views at the end.

Funicular Details:

• Duration: 7 minutes each way
• Cost: €17.61 one way / €22.16 round trip
• Kids under 12: €4.32 one way / €6.71 round trip
• Schedule: 10am-8pm (June-September) / 10am-12:30pm & 2pm-6pm (October-May)
• Frequency: Every 30 minutes

Pro Tip: Leave the car in the free parking of Arenas de Cabrales and take the bus to the entrance of the funicular – buses are 3€ round trip. The parking at Poncebos is extremely limited and fills up fast during peak season.

Option 2: The Hiking Adventure (For the Nature Lovers)

The hike from Poncebos takes about 1h30, covers 4km / 2.5 miles with 400m / 1,300 feet uphill. This trail, known as the Canal del Texu, is considered one of the most beautiful short hikes in Spain.

Hiking Stats:

• Distance: 4km (2.5 miles) each way
• Duration: 1.5-2 hours up, 1-1.5 hours down
• Difficulty: Moderate (suitable for most fitness levels)
• Elevation Gain: 400m (1,300 feet)

Important Note: The route through the Texu Canal will be completely closed until June 9 for maintenance (as of May 2025), so check current conditions before planning your hike.

What to Do in Bulnes: More Than Just Pretty Views

Explore Two Villages in One

Bulnes is actually made up of two hamlets: Bulnes de Arriba (High) and Bulnes de Abajo (Low). The two hamlets are connected via a scenic path and both offer incredible viewpoints.

Lower Bulnes (Bulnes de Abajo): This is where you’ll arrive and find most of the action – restaurants, the small church of San Martin, and the main square where locals still gather.

Upper Bulnes (Bulnes de Arriba): The path to upper Bulnes takes about 10 minutes, and it’s pretty steep. At the end of the path, you will reach the second part of the village, which has many houses in ruins but offers fantastic views over the valley.

Must-Visit Viewpoint: Mirador Naranjo de Bulnes

The crown jewel of any Bulnes visit is the viewpoint overlooking the famous Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu), a 2,529 meters high mountain in Picos de Europa (8,200 feet). It’s not the highest mountain in the area, but it’s the most famous. This limestone tower is Spain’s equivalent of the Matterhorn and is a bucket-list destination for rock climbers worldwide.

Getting There: This spot is a short walk uphill from Bulnes. Can be hiked in about +1 hour from Poncebos or 15 mins from the Funicular.

Village Wandering and Cultural Immersion

The village of Bulnes has a population of 34 residents but is filled with an artistic and eclectic vibe. Despite its tiny size, you’ll discover:

• Traditional Architecture: Stone houses with red-tiled roofs that have weathered centuries of mountain storms
• Art Installations: Surprisingly, this remote village has embraced a quirky artistic side with various installations scattered throughout
• Local Church: The small church of San Martin offers a glimpse into centuries of mountain spirituality
• Mountain Culture: Meet locals who still live the traditional shepherd lifestyle

Where to Eat: Mountain Cuisine at Its Finest

Bar Mirador Lallende – The Crown Jewel

Follow the road all the way to Bar Mirador Lallende, a wildly popular Bulnes restaurant that has a small outdoor patio that claims to possess one of the best views in the Picos de Europa.

What Makes It Special:

• Outdoor terrace with panoramic mountain views
• Traditional Asturian cuisine
• Surprisingly low prices – around 2 bucks for a coffee where you would expect higher prices for such a remote area
• Perfect spot to recover after hiking with a cold drink

Other Dining Options

All of the Bulnes restaurants and cafes boast outdoor seating, taking advantage of those million-dollar mountain views. However, during the winter and outside of peak season some places temporarily close, so check ahead if you’re visiting outside summer months.

Local Specialties to Try:

• Fresh mountain trout
• Traditional Asturian stews
• Local cheese and cider
• Hearty mountain bread

Where to Stay: Sleep Under the Stars

Albergue Villa de Bulnes

Albergue Villa de Bulnes offers budget-friendly accommodation with shared dorm-style rooms with prices starting at €18 Euro and include breakfast. This is your chance to wake up in one of Spain’s most remote villages – imagine stepping outside your door to those views!

Alternative Accommodations

If staying in Bulnes itself isn’t possible, Hostal Poncebos is a cozy guesthouse with a beautiful setting right beside the Rio Cares between the soaring mountains. As virtually the only accommodation option in Poncebos, it’s a perfect place to use as a base for hiking in the region.

Nearby Options:

• Las Arenas de Cabrales (20 minutes by car): More hotel options and restaurants
• Cangas de Onís (45 minutes): Historic town with full amenities
• Various rural houses scattered throughout the region

Best Time to Visit: Timing Your Mountain Escape

Peak Season (June-September):

• Best weather and longest daylight hours
• All facilities open
• Most expensive accommodation prices
• Busiest trails and funicular

Shoulder Season (May & October):

• If you’re a more budget-conscious traveler, then you may want to consider traveling to Bulnes between September and November, when hotel prices are generally the lowest
• Good weather but fewer crowds
• Some facilities may have reduced hours

Winter (November-April):

• The route had hardly any function in winter, when it was hidden in the snow
• Limited access and services
• Only for the most adventurous (and properly equipped) travelers

Extended Adventures: Making the Most of Your Trip

Multi-Day Hiking Options

Bulnes to Sotres Circuit: This awesome and full-day hike is about 8.25 miles and takes at least 6 hours. This challenging route takes you through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Spain.

Refugio de Urriellu Trek: Lovely hike through the Parque Nacional Picos de Europa, from the isolated small town of Bulnes to the Urriellu mountain hut. This is a serious mountain adventure that takes you close to the base of the famous Naranjo de Bulnes.

Day Trip Extensions

Ruta del Cares: Starting from nearby Poncebos, this is one of Spain’s most famous hiking trails – a spectacular gorge walk that’s suitable for most fitness levels.

Cabrales Cheese Experience: Las Arenas de Cabrales name implies its connection to the famous Cabrales Cheese, which is aged in the nearby limestone caves. Don’t miss the chance to taste this world-famous blue cheese at its source.

Practical Tips for Your Bulnes Adventure

What to Pack

• Proper hiking boots: Essential for the rocky mountain paths
• Layers: Mountain weather changes quickly
• Rain gear: Asturias is green for a reason!
• Camera: You’ll want to capture every moment
• Cash: Limited card payment options in the village

Getting to the Region

• Fly into: Asturias Airport (Oviedo) for direct access
• Alternative airports: Bilbao or Santander (2-3 hours drive)
• Train: Direct service from Madrid to Oviedo (4 hours)
• Car rental: Essential for exploring the region at your own pace

Local Etiquette

• Respect the environment: This is a protected national park
• Support local businesses: Your visit helps maintain this unique way of life
• Be prepared: Weather can change quickly in the mountains
• Greet locals: A simple “Hola” goes a long way in small communities

Why Bulnes Matters: Preserving Mountain Culture

The village, in which more than 50 people lived, was founded by shepherds who one fine day decided to live permanently in this place, giving up too many things. Your visit to Bulnes isn’t just tourism – it’s cultural preservation in action.

By choosing to visit this remote village, you’re supporting a community that has maintained its traditional way of life against all odds. You cannot reach Bulnes in a disrespectful way, breaking a way of life assumed by the mountaineers, or mistreating a landscape that they cared for for decades.

Final Thoughts: Your Mountain Adventure Awaits

Bulnes isn’t just a destination – it’s a journey back in time, a test of your adventurous spirit, and a reminder that some of the world’s most beautiful places require a little effort to reach. Whether you take the funicular for convenience or hike the ancient paths for the full experience, you’ll leave with memories that last a lifetime and probably a few hundred photos that still won’t capture the magic of this place.

The town of Bulnes is very beautiful and you have to see it once in your life – and honestly, once you’ve been, you’ll probably want to come back every year.

Ready to discover Spain’s last hidden village? Pack your hiking boots, charge your camera, and prepare for an adventure that’ll remind you why some journeys are worth every step.

Planning your Asturias adventure? Bulnes is just one jewel in this incredible region. Consider combining your visit with the Lakes of Covadonga, the coastal towns of Llanes and Cudillero, and the vibrant city of Oviedo for the ultimate northern Spain experience.